Imaginative names of wines, a Château owner who was once an international opera singer, art installations depicted on labels and numbered bottles with the winemaker’s fingerprint – these were just a few associations that made the fifth edition of Tastin’ France an artistic symphony of sorts. French wines are becoming more expressive on their labels- a shift from their rather stereotypical image of formality. As for the quality of wines, the French do not need any introduction whatsoever.
French wines have always commanded respect that few can match. So much so, that even a Vin de Pays (country wine) from France is expected to be of a quality associated with higher denominated wines of the New World. This apparently was the reason why some producers at Tastin’ France 2021 also showcased some of their quality affordable wines that may work well for the Indian market considering the high landing prices in the country.
The Fifth Edition of Tastin’ France in India
Hosted by Business France India, the Delhi fixture of Tastin’ France was held in the French Embassy at New Delhi on 15 Nov 2021. Apart from Delhi, the event saw engagements in Mumbai and Colombo (Sri Lanka). In Delhi, 13 French producers from the main wine regions: Champagne, Rhône Valley, Bordeaux, Languedoc, Jura and Gascony showcased more than 100 wines & spirits to beverage trade and aficionados. For the uninitiated, Tastin’ France was also held in 2020 under the shadow of the pandemic. Like the previous year, this year too, the organisers took all measures to ensure the safety of those present at the event.
Credit also goes to Business France India for having shared a catalogue of the wines / producers’ with the invitees much in advance. It enabled me to draw a list of wines to be tasted on priority. However, I was disappointed to not find the Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille from Jura that were high on my list. They apparently ran into some regulatory hurdles so as not to arrive finally. That said, there were plenty of other wines that enthused me no end at the tasting. Here are some of my picks:
Champagne
Champagne Bernard Lonclas
Champagne Bernard Lonclas was founded by Bernard Lonclas in 1976. It is located in the village of Bassuet in the Côte des Blancs region famous for its Chardonnay grapes. Maison Lonclas prides itself on the traditional methods of winemaking that are ingrained with respect for nature. They grow all the three Champagne grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
I was honoured to open and pour the first Champagne at their stall, which was a crisp and delicate Blanc de Blancs Brut. The Champagne poured with an impressive mousse and opened its bouquet of floral and citrus notes. Another of their wine that I particularly liked was Cuvée Sélection – a blend of 30% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir. It too, turned out to be marvellous combination of vinosity, acidity, and engagingly autolytic aromas.
Jura
Domaine Grand
A familial estate since 1692, Domaine Grand is situated in Passenans near Château-Chalon in AOC Côtes du Jura. Its present day helmsmen are Nathalie and Emmanuel of the new generation. The estate is cultivated organically since 2018.
As mentioned above, I missed the presence of their Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille but found their AOP Crémant du Jura White Extra Brut (a blend of 3 vintages of Chardonnay ) and AOP Crémant du Jura White Prestige quite inspiring. Both the wines are produced using the Methode Ancestrale, a technique that involves bottling the wine midway through its primary fermentation. Such wines are invariably more affordable than those using the Methode Traditionelle/ Champenoise that Champagne is most famous-for. Hence may be a good option for the price-sensitive Indian market.
Rhône Valley
Chateau Juliette
Alexandre Audier, the proprietor of Chateau Juliette is an interesting person to meet. He had been an athlete of national repute and an award-winning opera singer before he turned to his passion for winemaking. Coming from three generations of professional opera singers, Alexandre incorporates his passion for art and classical music into wine by creating cuvées that reflect the atmosphere of his favourite operas. Thus his wines are named Mme Butterfly, Tosca, Boheme and so on. It was delightful conversing with him around a tasting of his wines that had all the reflections of his exuberant personality.
Château Juliette Mme Butterfly Laudun 2017 AOP Côtes du Rhône Village
A blend of Grenache and Syrah (sometimes Cinsault too), this was a deep coloured wine with a brick-red rim. It had a great structure, ample body and flavours of dark berries and spice.
Château Juliette Tosca Laudun 2019 AOP Côtes du Rhône Village
Again a powerful wine, this one is also a blend of Grenache and Syrah. A highly expressive nose of mixed berries and a robust mouthfeel is sure to make it a gourmand’s delight.
Château Juliette Thaïs Laudun 2019 AOP Côtes du Rhône Village
A blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Bourboulenc, this was a complex white wine with flavours of green almonds, peaches and a hint of white pepper. It would go famously well with crunchy and savoury food combinations like bacon-wrapped asparagus or prawn tempura etc.
Domaine La Fille Des Vignes
www.domainelafilledesvignes.com
Domaine La Fille des Vignes was established in 2019 as a fully organic family owned vineyard located at Piégon, in Drôme Provençale. However, they have a much older history with their wine-growing company Tailleux et Filles established by the current winemaker Aurélie Tailleux’s parents. Aurélie is a qualified Agri-food engineer who returned to her family estate in 2018, to take over the family business from her father. They use ancient practices to cultivate their vineyards and use an organic fertiliser that includes lavender straw compost, a local farmer’s surplus put to good use.
Two vintages of their wine Domaine La Fille des Vignes Rouge Bio offered a vertical tasting of sorts.
Domaine La Fille des Vignes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rouge Bio 2019 (Grenache, Syrah)
A clear deep ruby wine with leafy and quince aromas. It had a good structure with rounded tannins and flavours of red fruits. It felt a little pettilant (faintly sparkling) on the palate.
Domaine La Fille des Vignes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Rouge Bio 2020 (Grenache, Syrah)
This one was surprisingly even more expressive on the nose and palate from its older sibling as above. I guess this is where the climatic conditions for a particular harvest year become significant.
Both the above wines were rather special and full of character.
Montirius Le Domaine
Having wines from the Southern Rhône Crus of Gigondas and Vacqueyras was sufficient for me to prioritise wines to taste from Montirius Le Domaine at Tastin’ France.
Located in the south of the Rhône valley, in the A.O.C Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Côtes-du-Rhône appellations, Montirius Le Domaine has 63 hectares estate that has been converted into Bio-Dynamic since 1996. Since 1999, all their wines have been made from organic and biodynamic grapes. They are also the first vineyard certified in Bio-Dynamic viticulture on the Vacqueyras and Gigondas appellations. I spoke to the owners through an iPad placed at their booth and enjoyed their wines in their true spirit.
Montirius Le Domaine “Terre des Aînés” AOP Gigondas 2017 -(80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre)
A medium-ruby wine with a fading rim that had aromas of red berries and spice. On the palate it was medium bodied, fruity and with rounded tannins ending in a great finish. I could linger with this wine alone but food would definitely be welcome!
Montirius Le Domaine “Garrigues” 2017 AOP Vacqueyras (70% Grenache, 30% Syrah)
This was a deep ruby coloured wine with an expressive nose of red fruits and herbs. It had a well structured and harmonious palate.
The term Garrigues refers to a collection of herbaceous plants on the limestone hills of the Mediterranean coast such as juniper, thyme, rosemary, lavender etc.
Languedoc-Roussillon
Château Rombeau
Rombeau is a highly awarded producer from the Languedoc region, having earned 35 GOLD medals since 2016 in national and international competitions. Their vineyards spread over the Agly valley and benefit from its unique climatic characteristics that are favourable to the grapes and their maturation.
At Tastin’ France 2021, I found their Vins Doux Naturels aka VDNs (naturally sweet wines that the South of France is quite famous for) particularly attractive. They had some amazing dry wines too!
Le Botaniste Roussillon IGP Pays d’Oc Blanc 2020 (Petit Manseng )
A relatively less encountered grape, Petit Manseng is known more for making sweet wines given its small berries (that’s why petit) and concentrated grape juice. I haven’t tasted many of them but this dry version was medium gold in colour with fruity and ginger aromas. It appeared off-dry to me but I was surprised to know that it had only 2 g/l of sugar. Overall, a delicious wine.
Rivesaltes Grenat 2018 AOP Rivesaltes (100% Grenache)
Rivesaltes is the largest appellation for VDNs. This wine is aged for 7 months in oak in climate-controlled cellars at 16°C. It had a luxurious deep ruby colour with a pleasant nose of ripe fruits and spice. On the palate, it had red cherry and chocolate flavours with a well-balanced sweetness and acidity followed by a satiating long finish. I would think to enjoy this wine with filo pastry, blue cheese or cherry and strawberry tarts.
Vignobles Vellas
Vignobles Vellas is located in the towns of Teyran and Crès, near Montpellier. The Vellas family prides itself on its synergetic ecosystem that includes over 1000 hectares of cereals, pasture and olive groves, a stud farm of 500 bulls and horses and their vineyard of 120 hectares. No surprise then, that a majority of their vineyards are organic.Nicolas Vellas, fourth-generation owner of Vignobles Vellas was present with his Export Manager Julia Sarda at the tasting. Their wines had particularly eye catching labels
Medusa Viognier Languedoc IGP Pays d’Oc 2020
A wine with an expressive nose of tropical fruits and a rounded palate with moderate acidity.
L’amour en Cage 2019 (Syrah, Grenache)
An intricate label depicting “caged love” makes this wine intrigue-worthy. It had the aromas of dense red cherries and some spice. On the palate, it was rounded and complex.
Bordeaux
Vignobles Boissonneau
Nicolas Boissonneau, who was also present in the previous edition of Tastin’ France has a strong liking for India as he plans to visit the country with his family soon. Last time too, I had tasted several of his wines and found them of very good quality. In the current edition he also presented their more affordable varietal range (around 2 € ex cellar) that may work particularly well for the Indian market. The wines are of great quality for the price that they offer.
La Vigne de Vie IGP Atlantique Merlot 2020
A delicious red wine with an expressive nose of red fruits complemented by a rounded palate. This one could be casually enjoyed on its own or with starters like charcuterie and tandoori food.
Maison Boisoneau IGP Atlantique Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2020
A 50: 50 blend of the classic Bordeaux varietals Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, this one was a sprightly wine with well balanced acidity and pleasant aromatics.
Jeremy Gordon Grands Crus
Jeremy Gordon Grands Crus is a négociant (trader) specialised in the distribution of wines from Bordeaux and South-West France. Their portfolio is largely made up of Grands Crus Classés and Premium brands. Some of their noteworthy wines at Tastin’ France 2021 were:
- Château Jalousie Beaulieu Prestige 2018, AOC Bordeaux Supérieur (100% Merlot)
- La Diagonale d’Arsac 2019, AOC Margaux (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon)
- Monsieur de Bordeaux Crémant NV, AOC Bordeaux Crémant (A Blanc de Noirs with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
Compagnie des Produits de Gascogne
Coming from the Gascony area in South West France, Compagnie des Produits de Gascogne is represented by a Cooperative called Hauts de Montrouge (HDM) comprising 60 winemakers and 24 other collaborators. Their portfolio includes Wines, Spirits and Liqueurs with a significant proportion being Armagnac from the Bas Armagnac region.
Among my favourite were Le Mousquet, an Armagnac based Orange Liqueur that is named so by virtue of coming from the Three Musketeers’ land. I also liked their various VS, VSOP and XO Armagnacs on offer.
Other Producers at the tasting
Château Fleur Haut Gaussens/ Le Couturier du Terroir (Bordeaux)
www.chateau-fleurhautgaussens.com
Château Fleur Haut Gaussens, located in Vérac was founded in 1996 by Hervé Lhuilier, the winemaker who now has 40ha of vineyards spread over 27 plots. They produce a good deal of varietal wines with accessible fruit like their La Bergeronette– a 100% Cabernet Franc. Going by their Bordeaux ethos, they most certainly make blended wines too, like their flagship Château Fleur Haut Gaussens (largely Merlot with a hint of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec) and a Bordeaux Supérieur wine that has been their bestseller for 20 years now. In 2018 they created a trading company called Le Couturier du Terroir that develops a range of wines from different regions.
Château Pesquie (Rhone Valley)
www.chateaupesquie.com
From the Ventoux terroir, Château Pesquié enjoys a unique microclimate, benefiting from the cooling effect of the Mont Ventoux that gives balance to their vines, reinforcing colour, concentration and freshness. Their wines at the tasting included their basic VDF (Vin de France) as well as AOC Ventoux labels.
JMVB
JMVB is a Bordeaux wine trading company selling in France as well as internationally. Their portfolio includes wines with and without geographical indications that come from the properties of their founders Claire and Renaud in Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru.
