Wine

Beauty lies in the eye of beholder and so every individual has  personal preferences. Maybe this is the reason some people prefer a wine that is complex and long lived, while others go for  an easy drinking  version that could be consumed soon after bottling. This theory of preferences crossed my mind as I entered the beautiful maison of the Champagne house Michel Gonet that takes a lot of pride in its specialisation of Blancs de Blancs– and has a definite loyal clientele for that. Located astride the celebrated Avenue de Champagne in Epernay that is dotted on both sides with famous names from the world of Champagne,  Michel Gonet undoubtedly has its position of pride in the milieu.

The Champagne house  established in 1802 by Charles Gonet has  40 hectares of  vineyards – majority of them being in the  Grands Crus of Cotes des Blancs region known for its affinity to the Chardonnay grape varietal. The house also grows around 20% of their total production as Pinot Noir (red grape varietal) that is used for tinting their Rosé Champagne and also to produce a vintage cuvée. Apart from Champagne, the Gonet family owns nine wine estates in Bordeaux that produces different styles of Red and White still wines in varying styles and are managed by the other siblings of the current Gonet generation.

Coming to our visit, it was a pleasing sight as we entered the typical French villa beset with large and ethereal glass windows and wooden flooring, shod with luxurious carpets at the right places. There were colourful Champagne bottles adorning the visitors’ lounge that we clicked for posterity while waiting for Madame Sophie Signolle, daughter of Michel Gonet and the Charge d’Affaires at the Champagne house. Soon enough, we were escorted to the adjoining dégustation room where the first wine for tasting was already resting in the chilling bucket.

The tasting proceeded as under:

Michel Gonet Millésimé  1998 Grand Cru Brut
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Alcohol : 12%

This wine won the Medaille d’Or (Gold Medal) in Concours d’Epernay 2003- an annual competition of Champagne wines. It was great to start our tasting with this wine as it was a delicately flavoured luxurious wine with a fruity nose and a creamy palate. The lingering finish lent it an extra edge and versatility to be used as an aperitif as well as a gourmet wine.

 

Michel Gonet Grand Cru Brut
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Alcohol : 12.5%

This pale gold wine with green tints conveyed its youthful nature from the outset. It was confirmed on the nose and palate as well, with its mineral and floral aromas and fresh fruity flavours. An excellent accompaniment with sea food!

Michel Gonet Brut Reserve
Grapes: 50% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Alcohol : 12%

The only  wine from MG stable other than Rosé  to contain a Pinot Noir blend. It was but natural for me to like this one because of my strong inclination towards Blanc de Noirs and its blends. The wine poured with a restrained but powerful mousse and a discreet ring that was a treat to watch. It had a complex nose of citrus fruits, red berries and toasted bread. The palate was tremendously fruity with excellent structure and a smooth lingering finish. A powerful Champagne that can very well stand up to robust food like  roasted lamb while at the same time gentle enough to handle sea food.

Michel Gonet Cuvée Prestige 2001 Brut
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Alcohol : 12%

Greenish gold in colour with an abundant mousse and fine persistent bubbles. The pedigree of being a prestige cuvée showed with a powerful, fruity and honeyed nose. On the palate it was refreshing with flavours of plums, honey and nuts. A delectable wine you can sip  as an aperitif to light up the occasion!

Michel Gonet Cuvée Prestige 2004 Extra Brut
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Alcohol : 12%

Extra Brut is drier than Brut- in that the residual sugar content in the wine is much lesser.This wine received the Silver Medal at  the Chardonnay du Monde 2010 competition- an annual fixture to judge best Chardonnay based wines.

The wine was medium gold in colour with a very expressive nose of ripe pears, dried fruits and bread crust. On the palate it was mouth filling and creamy with good acidity to balance the fruit. A decent long finish makes it a good gourmet wine.

Thus concluded the wonderful tasting session led by the passionate winemaker in Mme Sophie Signolle who highlighted the Champagne house’s emphasis on the traditional way of wine making yet adapting to modern technology, to produce high quality artisanal wines. They have also embraced a pesticide free organic ecosystem to retain the naturally fresh character of their wines.

Sure enough, we found the  wines to be fresh, minerally, pleasingly complex and some of the best Blancs de Blancs we tasted during our Champagne stay.

We could however not get to taste their oaked Blanc de Blancs with a traditional shellac sealed bottle closure due to only one bottle being available at that point of time, and Sophie needing to preserve it for further showcasing during the day. I however took  photos of the bottle since it was interesting to note how Dom Pérignon– the inventor of Champagne would have sealed the ‘stars’ he tasted in  the wine way back in the 17th century.

And the sparkle  has stayed on since then!

When several people from different professions get together, the interest has to be common- and tasting wines could easily be counted amongst the best of these! At a recently concluded event called Bienvenue that I hosted  in association with Eau de Monsoon restaurant at Le Meridien New Delhi, the enthusiasm of the guests was palpable by their timely arrival despite the infamous VIP movements on Delhi streets ( It’s a different matter though, that my pesky exhortation in the preceding days was forgiven by the guests rather graciously)! That the occasion was the national day of France (called Jour de Bastille) lent a special festive air to the soirée and I cleverly used it to fulfill my long standing ambition to be a history teacher- albeit an indulgent one.

The evening started with a palate awakening aperitif and a visit to the walk around cellars at the restaurant.  Next was the serious yet fun tasting experience that was accompanied by a ‘terroir feeling’ presentation. A brief word about the tasting room at Eau de Monsoon – the space is replete with illuminated tables, cascading water on glass facade and ample room  for the pre-requisites of wine tasting. And so it happens to be one of my favourites  to conduct an effortless  wine tasting!

 

 

The menu for the tasting comprising of Antipasti, Tapas, Assorted Cheeses and Dessert, was  finalized after several sittings with the staff at Eau de Monsoon – so the conduct was pretty simple and all  brass-tacks. This is how it went:

 

Wine # 1

Jean Claude Boisset AOC Mâcon Villages 2007

A medium gold colour and aromas of ripe stone fruits (peaches, apricots) and a citrusy whiff. A light bodied crisp dry and minerally palate and a medium finish. Went well with most of the finger food on offer and creamy cheeses (Brie, Camembert, Danish Blue)

Wine # 2

J Calvet À  Bordeaux AOC Graves 2006

Light Lemon with green reflections. A mix of fruit and vegetal aromas with strong bell pepper and sweet spice  on the nose. Dry and medium body palate with just the right acidity.  Ideal accompaniment with asparagus & artichoke Tapas as well as the olives in the Antipasti. Also paired well with other food on the platter as also the cheeses, especially the Danish blue.

 

Wine # 3

La Rochetière  AOC  Brouilly 2007

Brouilly has a special place in my heart since it is the appellation where I harvested the 2012 crop  with some distinguished producers during my stay in the region last autumn. The innately fruity character of Beaujolais wines often manifests in the form of a juicy and rounded mouthfeel and this time too there was no exception. Aromas of red cherries, strawberries and a little spice added to its overall charm. I still would not advice it to be paired with the smoked Salmon( as the youngest guest in the gathering affirmed)  but it was a pleasure with all other finger food on offer. And of course, hors d’ouvres could well be easy turf for this wine.

Wine # 4

Baron Philippe de Rothschild AOC Bordeaux Mouton Cadet 2010

The most famous brand of Bordeaux lived up to its expectations when I heard several ‘wows’ at the first sip. Deep ruby with a subtle garnet rim and pastry shop aromas (chocolate, vanilla et al) this firm yet gentle, fruity yet restrained wine is an epitome of man’s skill in the consistency of blending.The wine was a hit particularly with the cheeses and the Egg and Caviar Tapas.

 

Wine # 5

J Calvet À  Bordeaux AOC Sauternes 2008

J Calvet À  Bordeaux AOC Sauternes 2008 There are dessert wines and then there’s Sauternes. The name itself evokes respect and the pairing with the crumbly and lush peach and pear tart was anything but coincidence! The lovely medium gold wine with a bouquet of apricots, quince and honey had a wonderful medium bodied feel on the palate with flavours of honey,nuts, liquorice and apricots. The lingering finish ensured a perfect reminiscence of the just concluded tasting!

The most encouraging part of the soirée was the enthusiasm of attendees towards a typically international format of wine tasting-  where tasing measures of wine were served in a fluid sequence amid passionate discussions without the need to be politically correct- and to think that we get fixed up on the notion of Indians being aloof of wines!

Prenez le Vin s’il vous plait!

Meet Laurent Piaton. A forty something quintessential Frenchman who loves his wines in equal measures as his Fourme d’Ambert (one of the oldest French cheeses) . Laurent & I met a couple of years back at a wine dinner when he was in India to promote his portfolio of wines.  LPVM, his marketing company exports wine to several countries across the globe and this time, Laurent was on a ground level interaction spree with budding and experienced Indian wine enthusiasts. Being together at the dinner table we hit it off rather well as my curiosity towards French wines was well addressed by his in-depth background and a forthcoming demeanour. After a hearty dinner, we bade an optimistic “Au Revoir” with  an underlying reservation about a future meeting – considering that I was still a serving soldier with just an occasional interaction with the professional wine community.

Fast Forward >> 2011 and my wine pursuits received albatross wings in the form of the Global Champagne scholarship! But would I have returned after the four days sponsored trip at Champagne? Not if I was a true blue wine maniac! So I thought it was worthwhile to contact Laurent to see if he could facilitate my adventure in the wine heartlands of France. Far exceeding my expectations, Laurent replied to my mail along with a proposed itinerary faster than a blink and even offered to accompany me to the wine areas in his stunningly beautiful  Peugeot SUV! My French wine adventure was on!

After Champagne, I thus boarded the TGV to Bordeaux and started a further 10 days of hectic visits to wine estates that covered famed vineyards of Bordeaux, Provence, Rhone valley and Beaujolais.  Be it the UNESCO heritage town of St Emilion with its quaint setting, the interiors of Provence where finding an English speaking person was akin to looking for the proverbial needle in the hay stack , the wood fired oven pizza at Chateauneuf du Pape  or the picture perfect rolling vineyards of Beaujolais, it was the realisation of my longstanding dream of working hands-on in the Mecca of wines – all courtesy my French connection a.k.a. Laurent!

There is no option but to describe my experiences individually  in  future blog posts so as to befittingly transmit the intensity of the passionate winemaking I came across at each wine estate. To that effect, I guess it would not be out of place to title these posts in plural as – “My French Connections”- having forged lasting relationships in the deeply passionate  world of wines!

Laurent however, would always remain that special person who started it all for me.

Pour toutes les choses  vous avez fait pour moi – Je vous remercie Monsieur Piaton!

Trick or treat? Ask the halloween question to a winemaker and invariably the  response would be ‘Treat’ since there is no better joy than presenting one’s wines for appreciation!  But what do you call a wine treat that is yours for asking without the antics of a trick? You could not be complaining! This is the current wine scenario in India where the country’s shores are awash with exotic wines from the world over with producers making scrupulous efforts to showcase their wonderful creations!

Portugal is one such vinously rich country whose wines have started creating mammoth waves across oceans.  Not many would be aware that the first ever formally demarcated Quality Wine Specified Production Region (QWSPR) of the world goes to the credit of Portugal, when in 1756, the Douro region was classified  to protect the authenticity of Port- the best known fortified wine of the world  (sharing the honours with Sherry from Spain of course)! Portugal however, is much more than Port, and this was the emphasis at a tasting conducted at the salubriously beautiful  residence of Portuguese Ambassador to India, H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira– himself  a noted champion of the wine cause. The wines for the tasting were brought in by Joopy WWB– a Portuguese marketing concern, with their CEO José Carlos Costa (JCC) spearheading the enthusiastic showcasing. Joopy is a cute little ‘Nemo-ish’ kind of fish that is the mascot of the Company and was created by JCC in 2002. As per him, it symbolises the ‘Fish Philosophy’ of Playfulness, Dependability, Commitment and Positive Attitude. And it sure expresses these virtues with an ebullient demeanour!

Portuguese Wine Areas: Geographically speaking

Area wise a small country, Portugal is around 600 kms in length and 200 in width.  The major wine regions of the country are  Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alantejo. The country is bordered by Spain on the northern and eastern sides  and the Atlantic ocean on the other two. This endows it with diversity of terroir (soil, microclimate and production methods) and in turn contributes towards a broad spectrum of wine styles over short distances.

General Impression of wines tasted

Though the grape varieties from Portugal are unique, the range of flavours  are of course discernible in the same way as common wine tasting terms. There was however an element of intrigue brought about by the autochthonous varietals – in that the beauty of a distinct regional identity was well embossed. For instance, several of the reds were with medium levels of colour extraction but without

compromising on structure. With a reference to French wines, I would say that it could well be called a blend of Bordeaux and Beaujolais styles. Moreover, after Portugal becoming part of the EU in 1986, winemaking techniques from different regions of Europe have seen an amalgamation of sorts and some wines from Portugal now even use the well known international varietals. So is a Super Tuscan like scenario coming up here?  Only time would tell.

Wines Tasted

Regueiro White 2011
Region: Vinho Verde
Grapes: Alvarinho, Trajadura

Pale lemon with green undertones and aromas of citrus fruits, green apples and pears. A crisp and  light bodied wine with crunchy acidity. Ideal with sea food and creamy dishes.

Desigval White 2012
Region: Alentejo
Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Clean, straw coloured with aromas of peaches and red apples and some citrus notes. The palate was light bodied, fruity a little honeyed and with good acidity levels. I would recommend this wine as an aperitif or with sea food/ white meat.

Pontval White 2009
Region: Alentejo
Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Pale gold and having aromas of grapefruit, lemon and white flowers. Medium bodied dry and fruity on the palate with a hint of oak. A good wine with food due to its fuller body and complex character.

Fura Red 2010
Region: Douro
Grapes: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca

Tinta Roriz is another name for Tempranillo in the Douro region (Tempranillo is also known as Aragones in the Alentejo region). The wine was light ruby in colour with red fruits and perfumed aromas. The palate however was too light for my liking and I wished it could be firmer in structure.

Desigval Red 2012
Region: Alentejo
Grapes: Alicante Bouscet, Aragone, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trincadeira

This wine represents the increasing trend of international varietals being opted in traditional Portuguese wine making. The wine had a Claret like translucent bright cherry colour with plums, red cherries and farmyard aromas. On the palate it was juicy with light tannins. An easy going and savoury red that could easily go solo as a casual drink.

Pontval TN/T Red 2012
Region: Alentejo
Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira
Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

TN/T does not mean the explosive Tri Nitro Toluene here! It shorthands  Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira – the two powerful native Portuguese grape varietals. The wine was deep ruby in colour and aromas of cooked fruits and red cherries. On the palate it was medium bodied with rounded tannins and lots of ripe red fruits as well as some spice. A good food wine.

Donzel Reserva Red 2005
Region: Douro
Grapes: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca
Ageing: 9 months in American and French oak

This was the wine in my top two for the evening as it had it all! Good structure, outstanding complexity and a resonance of wine attributes. With a medium ruby colour, the wine had aromas of strawberries and red cherries and a medium palate of soft tannins and layered fruitiness.  A delightful wine that could make the job of food pairing a cinch!

Pontval Reserva Red 2006
Region: Alentejo
Grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Syrah
Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

Another of my top two, this was a wine with a powerful nose of blackberries, chocolate and earthy aromas. Dark ruby in colour with a full body and flavours of blackberries, fruit compote smoke and spice. A royal wine for pairing with robust food!

CLA Reserve Ruby Port
Region: Douro
Grapes: Not Specified (Port blends are complex to state)

A non vintage Port (I was expecting a vintage here) , this one had a bright ruby colour with a fruity, honeyed and nutty nose. The palate had abundance of red berries and nuts with a nice long finish. Went off quite well with the Indian dessert of Gulab Jamuns.

The most delightful aspect of the tasting was its upfront, honest and passionate conduct by the organisers, that facilitated the purpose of creating a sunrise moment for Portuguese wines in India- and solving for sure,  the ‘Trick’ part for wine lovers! No friend of Wine would mind getting ‘tricked’ into a wine tasting though!

Pervasive luxury has to be the norm when a glitzy and glamorous Champagne House does a national level launch of its beauties. We are talking of Cattier- the famous Champagne house, that was recently in news when guests of famous Hollywood actor Leonardo di Caprio swirled and sipped  $ 3.5 million worth of its prestige cuvée Armand de Brignac at his birthday celebrations. The occasion this time however, was the India launch of Cattier held in New Delhi at Hotel ITC Maurya and came as a precursive cooler to the already soaring mercury in the Indian capital.

Cattier is a family owned Champagne house that has owned vineyards in the exclusive Montagne de Reims area of Champagne since 1763. 1918 onwards, the house started producing Champagne under its own family name and currently exports to more than 60 countries worldwide (India being the latest). The wine styles range from crisp and minerally Blanc de Blancs (white wine from white grapes) to elegantly structured Rosés, and firm yet sophisticated Blanc de Noirs (white wine from black grapes) . I was disappointed though, to discover from Philippe that for the time being, Armand de Brignac would elude the Indian shores due to current market dynamics as envisaged by their importers- the Sri Lanka based Kosmos Group. Hope the viability is pretty soon!

My association with the Champagne house started last autumn when I went visiting them at Chigny les Roses in the very heart of Champagne district between Reims and Epernay. A visit to their three floors deep cellars and a dégustation session with none other than their President Monsieur Jean-Jacques Cattier was an  experience (read my earlier blogpost on Maison Cattier) that I started cherishing already.  So when I received an email from M Philippe Bienvenu,  Commercial Director Cattier, inviting me rather modestly for ‘a flute of Champagne’ to celebrate the launch of Cattier wines in India, my anticipation started building up. Needless to mention, the celebrations went miles ahead of a simple flute!

It  was deja vu to find M Cattier and Philippe warmly welcoming guests at the venue, even as the evening began with rounds of aperitif and hors d’oeuvres indicating the gourmet fare that lay ahead. Around an hour of tête-à-tête later, the dinner doors were opened and revealed immaculately laid out tables ready to receive the five course fare and the guests partaking of it. The selective gathering comprised of well heeled wine lovers from different vocations and it showcased the producer’s seriousness for reaching out to the widest possible cross-section of the Indian market

Course by course, the experience unfolded as follows (since I opted for non-vegetarian cuisine, my apologies to vegetarians for skipping the detailed description and photos of veg dishes):

First Course (Entrée)

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque
Type: Vintage 2005
Blend: 1/3rdeach Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs. 4500.00

Vinotheque in French means “Library of Wines”. As I discussed this aspect with Philippe, he told me the significance of the name being in the exotic and collectible nature of the wine that is akin to storing in a library, only to be pulled out for use when the situation is apt- to say so- with the compatible mood, food and of course the ambience!

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: Summer mushroom fondue drizzled with white truffle oil and butter fried goujons in  chive oil.

Non Vegetarian: Olive oil poached Scampi masked in raw Mango confit, paired with Sevruga caviar, port poached figs.

Tasting Notes: Clear pale gold colour with shimmering reflections. Aromas of golden apple, lemon and brioche. Refreshing acidity and layered complexity on the palate. Worked well with the freshness of Scampi, the tanginess of Mango confit and the salty palate coating texture of the Sevruga caviar.

Second Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: White corn agnolotti tossed in curry emulsion with beetroot essence.

Non Vegetarian: Chilean Sea bass napped in fennel confit, served with a side of fennel dill crescents and mustard butter.

Tasting Notes: As above. The wine complemented the freshness of Sea bass and balanced the aromatic complexity of the dish. And yes, the creamy texture of the dish found a great companion in the refreshing acidity of the wine.

Palate Cleanser

Green Apple Armagnac Sorbet- Served in an alloy spoon atop crushed ice in a cocktail glass. Worked well to demagnetise the palate.

Third Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Blanc de Noirs
Type: Non Vintage
Blend: 70 % Pinot Noir, 30 % Pinot Meunier
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: NA (currently not being imported in India)

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: Provencal aubergine rollatini on a bed of stewed baby tomatoes risotto and side of cumin spinach gnuddi.

Non Vegetarian: Slow braised lamb shanks, served with red wine Cipollini onions and rosemary thyme infused oil.

Officially, this third course was served with the Rose 1er Cru, but for me, Cattier Blancs de Noirs stole the show- and for good reason! First, I had already tasted this wine last autumn at Maison Cattier with none other than M Cattier himself and come to know of its virtues. Second, the robust dish with which it was served on this occasion had a perfect companion in this gladiatorial wine!  Incidentally, at hors d’ouvres   Philippe had indicated a ‘surprise’   inclusion in the degustation menu- and this happened to be it, being the unannounced entry that M Cattier ferried personally from France. This does not mean that the Rose was any less, but with Blancs de Noirs around, it gracefully bowed out to shine fully in the ensuing dessert course!

Tasting Notes: A pink gold colour expressing the strength harnessed within. A complex bouquet of black currants, plums, nuts and a distinct feel of spice. On the palate it was firm with lots of red fruits, jam and a hint of white pepper. The finish was smooth and lingering. The steely structure of the wine stood up perfectly to the firm and bouncy textured lamb. The medium sweetness of Cippolini onions was a delight with the spicy traits of the wine, and so were the aromatics of the dish that worked well with its layered complexity. It would not be an exaggeration to state the likeness of the pairing  to “brick and mortar” !

Fourth Course (Dessert)

Wine: Cattier Rosé Glamour
Type: Non Vintage
Blend: 30 % Pinot Noir, 60 % Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs 5600.00

Accompanied Food

Caramelised Butter petit pots with almond tuille, side of coddled summer fruits and vanilla pod freeze.

Tasting Notes: A clear, beautiful salmon pink colour with aromas of strawberries, black currant and toast. A fresh and lively palate of abundant red fruits accompanied by a smooth, lingering finish. A residual sugar content of 25 gms per litre classifies it in the Sec(Dry) category thereby  giving the richness for pairing with a fresh dessert like the one above. Worked quite well with the creamy, mildly sweet, nutty and fresh nature of the dessert.

The dinner concluded with an aromatic espresso accompanied by hand made chocolates and the celebrated artiste  Peter Mehta rendering Big Mountain’s sonorous- “Ooh Baby baby it’s a wild world“ with lilting piano notes.  “A’ Bientôt- Au Revoir”- bade Philippe before I made a promise to Monsieur Cattier for a rendez-vous encore… maybe in France.. maybe in India!

 

 

And literally so! With around 100 wines from 19 Spanish winemakers showcased in the already sizzling Indian capital, it was a rainfall of sorts that made wine professionals and connoisseurs feel the urge to tap-dance between wine bottles and get drenched in the vinous mélange!

The event called “Spanish Wine Showcase and Tasting” was  organised at the behest of the Ambassador of Spain in India  H.E. Gustavo Manuel de Aristegui– an ardent wine lover himself,  and helmed by Madame Isabel Mijares, the internationally renowned oenologist from Spain. The agenda for the day was a Press Conference followed by a grand tasting of Spanish wines.

As I entered the Spanish Ambassador’s residence at Firoze Shah road in New Delhi, a vigilant person checked my name in the list of invitees and guided me to the conference area, which had the typical charm of a Lutyen’s Delhi bungalow  accentuated by plush seating, antique carpets and  wall pieces  exuding  a definite Spanish character.

The press conference started with the Ambassador giving a brief background on Spanish wines and how these were poised to become more active on the Indian wine scene. This was followed by  each winery being introduced passionately by the respective winemakers, with flutes of Cava doing the rounds. A quick Q&A session later, we were ready for the tasting organised at the lush lawns of the bungalow.

Before I describe the tasting, a quick snapshot on Spanish wines would be in order:

Wine Areas

Spain is the third largest country in Europe with the largest area of vineyards in the world, the third largest wine production by volume, and highest wine exports globally.

There are 17 autonomous  wine regions in Spain with around  half of them situated in Castilla-La-Mancha (48.7% of planted vines), followed by Extremadura, Valencia, Castilla y León, Catalonia, Rioja, Aragon, Murcia and Andalucía. The most well known classified wine regions of the country are Rioja, Tarragona, Cariñena, Penedés, Ribera del Duero, Valdepeñas, La Mancha and Rueda– which is also the  first authorized and most known region.

Grape Varieties

The most common grape varietals in Spain are Airén (23.5%), Tempranillo (20.9%), Bobal (7.5%), Red Garnacha, Monastrell, Pardina, Macabeo and Palomino, in descending order of cultivation. Of these varieties, Tempranillo, Bobal, Red Garnacha and Monastrell are red, while the others are white.

With close to 100 wines out of which I could manage to sample only a third, it would be a litany of tasting notes, if all were attempted. Hence I am listing out only five wines representing distinct regions and styles. There were many other good wines that I regret  not to include here, but in all fairness, I have linked  the respective websites with winery names in the table at the end of this post so that you could visit them according to your interest in the region/ grape varietal. As for Sherry, I will do a separate blog post subsequently to do it full justice.

Wine: Cava Rosat Brut Reserva
Producer: Agustí Torelló Mata
Grape Variety: Trepat
Alcohol Content: 11.5%

Cava wines are produced in the same method as Champagne i.e. by undergoing second fermentation in the bottle itself- that lends it more complexity and sustainable effervescence. I tasted for the first time, a sparkling wine made from Trepat (which is the indigenous grape varietal of  North East Spain) and liked the experience. The wine was an attractive cherry pink in colour and poured with an abundant mousse. It had intense aromas of strawberries, vanilla and a little mint. The palate was creamy with refreshing acidity and flavours of red berries and toasted bread. I would like to buy this wine when available and after the conversation with the winemaker, I could calculate the retail price as under Rs 4000/- if it arrives on Indian retail shelves- which is quite reasonable for a sparkling wine of this quality.

Wine: Matarromera Reserva
Year: 2006
Producer: Matarromera
Grape Variety: Tempranillo
Alcohol Content: 14 %

This winery already has its wines retailing in India with their importer being Advanced Life Sciences (Private Limited) based at Delhi. The wine is from the Ribera del Duero region, which is known for its powerful reds. Dark ruby in colour, the wine exuded aromas of red cherries, plums, liquorice and sweet spices. Despite 14 % alcohol in the wine (which is a higher side) the wine did not smell too alcoholic and that was a welcome trait. On the palate the wine gave an impression of red fruits, spice and medium tannins. The finish was smooth and lingering.

Wine: Flor de Gewürztraminer
Year: 2012
Producer: Laus
Grape Variety: Gewürztraminer
Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

This is a wine that would invariably be popular amongst wine consumers in tropical countries like India. There were many wine lovers at the event who agreed with me on this account- and the reason for this upbeat feeling? The wine has it all for being a blockbuster in this part of the world- an off dry feel, refreshing palate, tropical flavours of lychees and mangoes, aromas of wild roses and tropical fruits. The wine comes from Somontano region in North East Spain.

Wine: Chardonnay 234
Year: 2011
Producer: Enate
Grape Variety: Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 14.5 %

The suffix ‘234’ in the name of the wine signifies a prized plot number in the Enate valley in Somontano, from where 100% grapes of this wine are sourced. A cool refreshing Chardonnay with an intense bouquet of apples, peaches and fennel. On the palate, it had medium to full body, complex flavours with rich mouth filling fruit and a long finish. A thirst quencher wine for sure!

Wine: AN/2
Year: 2010
Producer: Anima Negra
Grape Varieties: Callet, Manto Negro and Fogoneu
Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

It was but obvious that I had to try this wine as it is from the Mallorca island off the coast of Spain towards the east in the Mediterranean sea, with typical grape varietals of the region. The wine is a blend of three native grapes  from the island and was an entirely new experience for me. The wine was translucent ruby in colour with a  bouquet of wild berries, tar and coffee . The palate was medium-bodied with round tannins and plenty of red fruits accompanied with a lingering finish. I would love to have this wine with a barbecue spread!

Most of the winemakers at the tasing were positive about putting their wines on the Indian retail shelves very soon. In fact some are already here and are working on expanding their range further. With the prospects of import duties on wines in India falling to one third levels looking more probable considering the latest developments between India and European Union,I suppose a wine bonanza should soon unleash at the Indian shores- and there are countless wine fans to lap it up all!

Wineries Represented at the tasting

Ser No	Bodega (Winery)	DO (Quality Wine Area)	Grapes	Wines
1	Agustí Torelló	Penedes Cava	Macabeo, Xarel-Lo, Perellada ,Trepat	Sparkling, White
2	Anima Negra	Mallorca Montsant	Callet, Mantonegro, Fogoneu,Prensal, Garnacha, Cariñena	White, Red
3	Bouza do Rei	Rias Baixas	Albarino	White
4	Carabal	Ribera Del Guadiana	Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano, Tempranillo, Syrah	Red
5	Elias Mora	Toro	Tinta De Toro	Red
6	Enate	Somontano	Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot	White, Red, Rose
7	Estévez	Jerez-Sherry Rioja Cava Rueda	Palomino, Pedro Ximinez, Vardejo, Macabeo, Xarel.Lo. Parellada,Tempranillo, Garnacha	Sparkling, White, Red, Fortified
8	Felix Solís Avantis	Rioja Ribera Del Duero Valdepeñas	Tempranillo	Red
9	Ferrer	Binissalem	Mantonegro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo Callet,Moll,Chardonnay Moscatel	Red, White, Sweet
10	Freixenet	Cava	Pinot Noir, Macabeo, Xarel.Lo, Parellada	Sparkling
11	Laus	Somontano	Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo	Red, White, Rose
12	Matarromera	Ribera Del Duero Cigales Rueda	Tempranillo, Verdejo	Red, White
13	Melgarajo	Vinos De La Tierra De Leon	Prieto Picudo	Red, Rose
14	Muga	Rioja Cava	Viura, Malvasia Garnacha, Tempranillo Mazuelo	Red, White, Rose, Sparkling
15	Pesquera	Ribera del Duero La Mancha Castilla Y Leon	Tempranillo	Red
16	Solar de Samaniego	Rioja	Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon	Red
17	Torres	Cataluña Penedes,Rioja, Brandy	Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Moscatel De Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc Macabeo, Parellada Xarel.Lo	Red, White
18	Valdeviñas	Ribera del Duero	Tempranillo	Red
19	Viyuela	Ribera del Duero	Tempranillo	Red

Fame has its flipsides too! First- a continuous effort required to stay on top and second- increasingly high number of competitors surreptitiously trying to encash on your brand. So what does one do to counter these threats? Simple! Be your original self and continuously innovate! This is precisely what the best known wine in the world does, and the regulatory body known as Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) rather proactively ensures so!

CIVC was initially formed in 1935 by the name ‘Chalons Committee’ (Chalons is a small city that is the capital of Champagne-Ardenne district) with an aim to harmonise dealings between  vine growers and the négociants (merchants) in the Champagne region. Over the years, the organisational structure of this committee saw changes and it evolved in the present form in 1941. The principal activities of CIVC relate to technical and commercial support to the Champagne producers as also to zealously defend the Champagne brand against wrongful, illegal or unauthorised use in many countries. It goes without saying that thus far it has done an enviable job of it !

Coming to my visit to Champagne, it was courtesy CIVC that I landed as a guest in the region, thanks to my enthusiasm (and most certainly performance too) in the Intermediate level certification of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), London. These scholarships are awarded by CIVC to offer select wine professionals across the world, a detailed look into the enchanting world of the famed bubbly!

So when we arrived at the lively yet business like street in Epernay, the Maison de la Champagne greeted us with its chic demeanour silently containing the bubbly vivacity as would a Champagne bottle- and the Ambassador of Champagne to India, Mr Rajiv Singhal (in the photo alongside) led our delegation from the front. We were escorted to a vast and naturally illuminated hall replete with tables that had all the requisites of wine tasting. But before the   tasting expedition,  it was the crisp and informative presentation by Monsieur Philippe Wibrotte, Responsable des Relations Publique at CIVC, that opened our eyes  about how over the years, Champagne has withstood the vagaries of brand infringements, tough production years, and increasing market competition- all the while managing to stand tall and inimitable! The ubiquitous role of CIVC in the complete Champagne lifecycle- from Research and Development to Growing, Bottling, Shipping, Marketing, Retailing and Customer Contact, was also highlighted.

Following this was a guided wine tasting  conducted  by CIVC’s Oenologue Chargée de Communication, Madame Violaine de Caffarelli. The focus of the tasting was    to highlight various aspects of terroir (soil type and micro climate), peculiarities of aperitif and gourmet wines, as also different winemaking philosophies of  producers. The sequence of tasting was intelligently chosen so as to bring out the typicalities of grapes that go into the making of Champagne. The experience was poetically fluid and delightful  as under :

Paul Goerg, Blanc de Blancs
Paul Goerg is a cooperative located in Vertus (one of the highest Premier Cru villages of Champagne) and is named after a Mayor of the town in late 19th century, who did yeoman service to the vineyards of the region. Situated in Cotes des Blancsregion famous for its Chardonnay grapes, 85 % of vineyards here are Premier Cru and the wines are produced in different styles owing to the diverse terroirs within the region.

Tasting Notes
A classic refreshing Chardonnay with wonderful complexity. The wine was limpid and pale gold in colour, with  aromas of dried fruits and bread. The continuous bead of plentiful  bubbles that formed an intense ring on top, made for a mesmerizing sight . The palate was creamy  with complex flavours of prunes, figs, honey and nuts. I could not help but nod in affirmation when Madame Caffarelli pronounced it a good aperitif wine.

Mailly Grand Cru, Blanc de Noirs
What started as a collective bounceback effort by growers after the markets crash in 1929, went on to become one of the best known cooperatives located entirely in a Grand Cru region in the heart of Montagne de Reims. The Mailly estate is famed for its Pinot Noir dominant wines though Chardonnay is also cultivated in around 25% of its 70 hectares vineyards and used in some of its wines. We tasted this 100% Pinot Noir and the experience was nothing short of delightful!

Tasting Notes
An intense antique gold colour with a subtle rouge tint. Earthy and nutty nose with aromas of ripe berries, and some floral notes. On the palate, it was steely yet soothing,followed by a long finish. This wine was highlighted as a food wine and here too, we were in agreement owing to its lingering presence in the mouth.

Ruinart Brut, 50% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
The oldest Champagne house (established in 1729) that distributes its wines through very few outlets,is amongst the connoisseurs’ favourite the world over. The house is presently owned by the luxury goods conglomerate  Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey (LVMH). True to its ancient history, the Ruinart bottle is modelled on the original 18th century champagne bottle.

Tasting Notes
A brilliant straw yellow colour with gold reflections. A fruity and nutty nose complemented with yeasty aromas. The palate was full bodied with refreshing acidity, good structure and flavours of red apples and ripe peaches. An excellent gourmet wine but also good as aperitif.

A lunch fit for Kings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the surreal tasting, we were escorted  through the picture perfect streets of Epernay for a gourmet lunch  hosted by CIVC at La Grillade Gourmande – a signature fine dining space owned by celebrity chef Christophe Bernard. Apart from the outstanding food, the wine list was humungous- content wise, as well as in its physical form. With real wine labels pasted on a thick cardboard album, it required well worked out arms to hold but then- no spectacles even if one is known to strain on a size 14 font! The Champagnes we selected were a Philipponat- a familiar Sparkler at Michelin starred restaurants & an exclusive Alfred Gratien– that falls into the Boutique genre. The chef personally approved our choice and his passion in describing the wine and food made his intimate involvement in the restaurant nothing but obvious. The pure indulgence made us miss out on scribbling down the tasting notes, but we compensated by clicking photos of the gourmet food- not to forget a parting snap with chef Christophe Bernard himself!

We couldn’t have had it better CIVC ! Merci! Au Revoir très bientôt!

P.S. Will upload more pictures on this post soon! So checkout the blog again after a couple of days!

In the fading moments of 2011, I had posted an article on my website on the subject of sensible drinking during the festive season- particularly on New Year Eve. The article was well received and many friends gave me thumbs up for it.  This time around, due to restructuring of my website and the advent of this blog , I am reinventing, refining and reproducing the same article with some added tips that are the result of personal experimentations. It would be thrilling for me if I am instrumental in affecting even one lesser hangover this New Year! So here goes:-

Before the Limousine moment

1. Best Foot Forward
Start the D day, with a healthy breakfast of fruits, cereals and nuts- an oft repeated advice- so what’s exceptional about it?  Well, for starters, these would build up your reserves of water and vitamins that are bound to get depleted by the ensuing indulgences. The roughage provided too, would ensure that your ‘throne’ séjour is comfortable the morning after. Top nutritionists advice that your day’s food intake should be balanced by the counterweights of  the opposite variety.  Hence having a healthy daytime intake would keep you well poised (and relatively guilt free) for letting your hair down in the evening.

2. Butter..oops..Oil’em Up
Old timers would bet on the effectiveness of consuming a generous dollop of butter before leaving on an alcohol bingeing spree- and rightly so- because the greasy lining created by butter reduces alcohol absorption in the stomach, thus limiting its harmful effects. I would advice the butter to be substituted by a 60 ml shot of Extra Virgin olive oil, which would serve the same purpose with significantly lesser calories. Also, Olive Oil is rich in Vitamins E, K and beneficial fatty acids thus providing another line of defence for your body.

3. Bulk it!

Psyllium husk or Isabgol as known in Hindi is a wonderful natural produce that is obtained by milling the Psyllium seeds. These flakes can absorb fluids more than 10 times their weight, are insoluble and are not digestible by the body. Due to this absorption power, they have a tendency to bulk up and make one feel fuller in the stomach. Having 2 tablespoonfuls of Isabgol with water would ensure that you do not dart off to that fried snacks counter too early in the evening as also limit the alcohol getting through to your stomach lining – same way the taxman limits the money reaching your pocket!

4. Do not drink on an empty stomach. When you arrive at the party venue, grab an initial glass of water (warm water if you don’t fancy a cool glass owing to the chilly weather)  and make this first drink last for at least 10 minutes, nibbling on starters if already being served. This will also give you time to check-out what drinks are available at the bar & make a considered decision about your tipple for the evening.

5. Once you hold your preferred drink, change drinks only if you have a history of being able to endure mixed drinks. Remember, there’s no bravado in having mixed drinks since the tolerance for these differs by body constitution, and there is nobody else who would know the suitability better than you. There is no “one size fits all” in drinks & that friend of yours with an enviable capability to digest gallons of concoctions doesn’t necessarily qualify to star in the sequel to Skyfall. So forget about the halo effect and if at all, try different drinks with the same alcohol base- i.e. if having Vodka, stick to Vodka based drinks only.

6. Be aware of your alcohol limit going by past experience  both with straight-up drinks and cocktails. Cocktails generally contain some sweet element that enhances the potency  of the alcohol. Also, owing to the freezing temperatures during this part of the year, the tendency to gulp down drinks fast in higher. To obviate the guzzling spree, locate a warm place like a heating arrangement or a cosy setup and  get intimate (conversation wise) with friends that interest you. The urge to visit the bar counter will be much lesser.

7. Try spacing consecutive drinks with a few gulps of pure aqua. If this sounds too clichéd, dilute your straight up drink with a little water or if having cocktails ask the bartender to dilute it with the appropriate mixer.

8. Politely refuse to the waiter, an offer for replenishing your drink if your glass already contains 1/3rd  or more of its capacity. You will be surprised as to how much control you’ve had on your intake by following this simple principle.

9. Remember, contentment is a state of mind and the law of diminishing returns is equally applicable when it comes to consumption of alcohol. Studies have shown that after consuming upto 4-5 large drinks, further consumption becomes more of a mechanical pursuit rather than real pleasure. If you are conscious of your intake, it is unlikely that you will exceed this quantity- but if the stage does arrive- it’s time to grab the dinner plate or head for the dance floor.

10. Lastly- remember that it’s New Year’s Eve and the aim is to share the excitement and celebration with your nears and dears to make it a fond memory. The idea is not to get ****ed drunk as to forget the next day  how wonderful the previous evening had been, and worse, get a crippling hangover on the very first day of the promising year ahead!

P.S. One last word! Do surprise the cop at the crossing by being driven back home by a non-drinker!

Wishing you a Happy, Safe and Successful New Year!

La Marquetterie! The enchanting  18th century Taittinger Estate,   that   must feature on the itinerary of  any visitor to this Champagne house if the visit is to be considered complete!  These were the thoughts that crossed my mind while I partook of the 5 course gourmet  dinner accompanied with their finest Champagnes at the manor. And to think that I had already started summarizing my visit to Taittinger after admiring their picture perfect cellars earlier in the day!

La Marquetterie is the French word for ‘The Chequerboard’ and the estate is named so due to the alternately planted plots with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. During autumn when the leaves of these different grapevines turn into hues of red  and yellow, the whole estate looks like  God’s own chess board – albeit in colour. The magnificent Chateau de la Marquetterie also has a depth of historical significance being  originally a  Military Headquarters during the first world war where many a battle was planned. It was during those times that Pierre Taittinger, a Cavalry man with the French Army fascinated about returning back some day and acquiring the estate. Return he did- and voila! Seeds were sown for one of the well known Champagne houses of  of the day. Despite a turbulent past where the control of the Champagne house slipped from the hands of the Taittinger family, it is once again back  with the family with Emmanuel Taittinger at the helm and his children Clovis and Vitalie playing active roles in keeping up with the times.

So much for history. Coming to  serious Champagne business, our visit to Taittinger kicked off with a visit to their famous cellars at the Saint Nicaise Abbey- one of the erstwhile abodes of Benedictine monks that was once a chalk quarry . The Benedictine monks enlarged these 4th century chalk quarries to create  an  optimum environment  for storing Champagne with just the right levels of humidity and temperature. Taittinger acquired these cellars in 1931, and since then, millions of their bottles age in this wine friendly environment. In one of these caves, we came across an overwhelming 1,00,000 bottles of their prestige cuvée Comtes de Champagne resting before their tryst with the outside world!

Following the visit to cellars, we were received at La Marquetterie by Madame Dominique Garreta, Directrice Communication at Taittinger and  proceeded immediately to the vineyards adjoining the manor. While we soaked in the breathtaking landscape with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on  either sides ready for harvest, the first Champagne of the rendezvous- Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2002 was offered for tasting. The experience was as under:

Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, 2002

Taittinger calls this as its ‘Holy Grail’ due to its out and out exclusivity. It is a vintage Champagne  matured for 8 to 10 years in the chalk cellars  and is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes grown in the best Grands Crus of Cotes des Blancs. Only First Press wines are used for this cuvée that impart  it the finesse so rightly associated with it.

Tasting Notes
Pale gold colour with abundant  bubbles forming a persistent mousse. The bouquet is fresh and mineral with citrus and toasty notes. A refreshing palate with flavours of pineapple, melon and toasted  brioche. With smooth long finish, this wine can work as an aperitif and also with rich and creamy food. We sampled it with finger food ranging from puffed pastries, to  assorted skewered meats.

After sampling this exclusive wine, we moved inside Chateau de la Marquetterie for dinner at a round dining table with historical artifacts all around. The Champagnes served with the dinner were:

Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus Brut

A 50:50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine are sourced from vineyards with a 100% rating in the Champagne classification system. Again, only First Press wines are used in this blend and it is aged in the cellars for several  years more than the stipulated minimum regulation (15 months for a Non Vintage Champagne).

Tasting  Notes
A shimmering pale gold colour with aromas of citrus fruits and white flowers. The palate is refreshing with flavours of  peaches,geen apples and a pleasing minerality. The finish is rich and explosive that lingers for a long time. Good as an aperitif or with seafood. We were served this with the Entrée course of grilled petit vegetables and roasted shrimps.

Taittinger Brut Millésimé 2005

This Brut vintage cuvée is a blend of equal parts of Grand Cru Chardonnay from Cote de Blancs and Grands Crus Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims and top of the Marne valley. Made exclusively from First Press juice, it matures for a long time in the cellars.

Tasting Notes
Bright golden straw yellow colour with vigorous effervescence. The nose is intensely aromatic with initial flowery notes developing into ripe fruit and dried fruit aromas. The palate is complex and rich with a fruity character that lends it a subtle sweetness. A long and fine finish makes it a good food wine. We appreciated it with the main course of Fish Fillet  stuffed  with scallops,nuts and saffron and Zucchini Ribbons in fresh butter.

The Famous Gate Carneros 2006

This wine is a Pinot Noir from Taittinger’s wine estate Domaine Carneros in Napa Valley, California held jointly with Kobrand Corporation of the USA. Domaine Carneros produces three sparkling wines (note that these cannot be called Champagne) and two still red wines.

Tasting Notes
Bright and deep cherry colour. Explosively fruity on the nose accompanied  with an earthy aroma. Medium bodied and fruity on the palate with flavours of raspberries, red cherries and a hint of spice. Light tannins  and a medium-long finish make it an easy drinking red wine with a lasting impression We relished it  with the Fromage course of aged cheeses and dry fruits compote.

Taittinger Nocturne Sec

Taittinger highlights this as a Night Time Champagne due to its propensity to accompany the sweeter  things in life, and with perfect  reason-  this Champagne has 17.5 grams per litres of dosage(added sugar in the last stage of Champagne production) that classifies it as Sec (Dry). As compared to Brut, Extra Brut and Brut Nature Champagnes, Sec Champagnes are sweeter but only subtly. The added sugar lends them a fuller and rounder body that makes them good accompaniment with a host of desserts. the compostion of this wine is 40% Chardonnay and 60% of  Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Tasting Notes
Pale bright lemon  colour . A delicate nose of peaches, dried apricots and white flowers. A smooth full bodied  creamy palate with good levels of acidity and a sensation of ripe fruits and  raisins. The finish is long and smooth with layered complexity. A good dessert wine but could also be enjoyed on its own- maybe as a digestif. We sampled it with Pistache Macarons, Strawberry Sorbet and a collection of Red Fruits.

The indulging dinner concluding, we bade farewell to Madame Dominique Garreta and the house of Taittinger with a hope of finding these wines more abundantly at customer friendly prices in India in the near future. As per Taittinger, the present volumes are not significant in India primarily due to the high landed cost of wines, but there is great hope due to the ongoing  dialogue  of trade concessions between India and the European Union. Needless to say that as wine lovers  we would wait impatiently for that to happen!

After a hearty gourmet lunch at  Billecart-Salmon (see previous blog post), we headed towards the Champagne house Cattier, which is located in a beautiful village called Chigny les Roses between Reims & Epernay. As our vehicle took the turn on Rue Dom Perignon, one thing appeared very distinctive to our all Indian contingent – the roads were vacant as if the traffic had been diverted due to VIP movement- but unlike back in India, that was not the case. The density of population and various other factors like orderliness (a debatable issue) were the reason for the all pervading solitude.

Reaching the Cattier house, a meticulously maintained grape press of yesteryears greeted us. These presses were used for extracting the juice from grapes until the advent of more advanced pneumatic presses. At the glittering reception area replete with colourful Champagne bottles all around, we were greeted by none other than the owner M. Jean Cattier and the Director Commercial, M. Philippe Bienvenu. They suggested to us, a wine tasting followed by visit to the cellars or the other way round. Knowing well that we desperately needed some exercise after the gourmet indulgence at Billecart-Salmon a short while ago, we opted for the latter and braced ourselves for climbing some really steep steps in the  150 years old Cattier cellars that are 3 floors deep and happen to be one of the deepest in Champagne. Our young guide named Gauthier Bongras who spoke English rather well contrary to his modest admission, escorted us to the place that was designed using three different architectural styles- Renaissance, Romanes que & Gothic. The cellar expedition was  not as difficult  though- going by the sheer beauty of the place. The area where the famous prestige cuvee Armand de Brignac rests before seeing the outer world is full of razzmatazz with the colourful bottles reflecting the carefully placed lights. For a mo

ment you feel you’re in Vegas!

 

The visit to cellars concluding, we were escorted  back to the Cattier bureau for dégustation  As we sank into the plush pristine white leather sofas in the dégustation area, Gauthier placed the glasses and opened the first bottle which was a Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru. Our first sip coincided with  M. Cattier and Philippe arriving and we thought it was a good idea to move to the beautiful illuminated Bar  for more animate discussions across the bar counter The degustation progressed as follows:-

Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru

A lovely lemon-gold colour that can be appreciated from the clear bottle itself. Citrus and green fruits aromas with a hint of flowers.  A super refreshing palate with sensations of green apples, pears and dried fruits that make for a complex character. Overall a refreshing wine that can be an excellent aperitif but I suppose the fruits on the palate would emerge more after three to five years for optimally balancing the high levels of acidity.

Brut Vintage 2003 Premier Cru
A blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir and 25 % Chardonnay, this Vintage Champagne is another good wine as an aperitif as well as an accompaniment with poultry and sea food. A deep golden colour with a generous mousse, the aromas are of citrus and green fruits with  biscuit  and bread nuances. The palate is fruity, light and refreshing and the finish is medium with a touch of spice.

Brut Blanc De Noirs
This one turned out to be my favourite wine tasted with Cattier.  Blanc de Noirs means ‘White wine from Black Grapes’ and true to its name, this wine is produced from a 70:30 blend of the two black grapes of Champagne i.e. Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier. The wine has a seductive peach-pink colour and pours with a strong but restrained mousse. The nose is complex with aromas of black currants, ripe plums and a distinctive feel of spice. The palate is medium bodied and rich with an immense fruity feel. Well structured wine fit to be paired with a wide variety of meats and other robust textured food.

Clos du Moulin Brut Premier Cru
This is the prestige cuvee of Cattier and grapes for producing this wine come from an exclusive 2.2 hectares parcel near Chigny les Roses. This cuvee is always made from 3 vintages selected for their quality and ageing capacity. The composition of the wine is  50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The wine is medium gold in colour with an amber tint. The nose is delicate yet firm with fruits and pastry shop aromas. The mouth feel is creamy and vinous with lush fruit. The wine lingers in the mouth for a long time  and hence would qualify as a good food-wine. Overall a delicate, complex and full bodied wine that would do well with seafood and rich creamy textured dishes.

The dégustation culminated with talks of the possibility of Cattier coming to India. Presently, the annual production of the house is around 1 million bottles, of which 60 percent is exported to 70 countries. The main deterrent for exporting to India seems to be  the same old story- stiff trade barriers in India. But things look positive on that front owing to hectic parleys between the European Union and India on effecting mutual concessions.

Breaking News: Just received  a mail from Philippe that Cattier has entered into a contract with a Sri Lanka based company having Indian ownership for exporting their Champagnes to India. So there’s more to cheer about the Bubbly space . Let them sparklers illuminate the scene!