Wine

The economic crisis in Greece seems to have blown over and I sincerely hope that the country will have plenty of right reasons to be in news in the coming times. What makes me so optimistic is due to -what else- but Greek wines that bring a lot of promise to wine passionates.  I recently experienced some delicious Greek wines in New Delhi that made me wonder why I was not tasting them often. The tasting was held at the Embassy of Greece in New Delhi, with the Ambassador H.E. Ioannis E Raptakis playing  keen host.

The wines were from Vaeni – a cooperative from Naoussa region in Macedonia famed for some great red wines made from the indigenous Xinomavro (In Greek, Xino means acid and Mavro means black – implying high acidity and high tannin grapes) varietal.  Greek wines are known to be localized to specific regions where all the country’s 15 major grape varietals  are not to be found outside their respective regions. For Naoussa, the crowning glory is  the Xinomavro grape varietal and it was only befitting that Fountoulis George, President of Vaeni Cooperative arrived himself  to conduct the tasting with all passion.

Greek wines – a historical perspective

History has it that Greece is one of the pioneers of winemaking with evidence of vineyards dating back to 2000 B.C. It was the Greeks, who transported wines to most of Europe through the Mediterranean. The country went into oblivion for a very significant period before the modern wine industry took shape post the world wars. The industry firmed up as Greece joined the Eurozone – and this brought investments and modern technology to its shores.

Viticultural regions are found all over Greece – the major winemaking regions in Greece are Northern, Central, Peloponnese and certain islands off its coast. Greece retains several indigenous grape varietals – the major red varietals are Aghiorghitiko, Limnio, Mandelaria and Xinomavro and the whites are Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Savatiano and Robola – and they produce remarkably unique wines.

The Vaeni Cooperative

Vaeni Cooperative was formed in 1983 when 330 vine growers of Naoussa came together with an aim to make better use of their crop and act as a counterbalance for private companies. Mr George informed me that  their production philosophy is about keeping pace with the times by adapting new technology while still maintaining the considerations of their heritage. The cooperative today exports 30 per cent of its sales to 27 countries and Mr. George is quite optimistic about India becoming the 28th! They are also socially sensitive by providing direct employment to more than 250 families and indirectly to many more.

The tasting

The wines being from Naoussa, all of them, whether white or red,  were from 100% Xinomavro varietal.  One could relate to these wines by drawing parallels with international varietals but their USP lay in their distinct character. One could actually feel that these were high quality wines from a different genre that packed the necessary punch for an altogether different wine experience.

Makedonikos 2014 (white) Alc 11.5%

This wine is made from  free run/first press juice and in fermented in stainless steel tanks- hence it was very fresh and aromatic. The nose was reminiscent  of  white flowers, ripe peaches and pears while the palate was refreshing and delicious. With a residual sugar of 9 g/l the wine’s off-dry disposition was matched well with ample acidity. The wine was a big hit during the tasting.

Naoussa 2010 (Red) Alc 12.5%

A light ruby wine with fresh red fruits nose, most prominently red cherries. Light-medium bodied on the palate with an emphatic yet gentle structure, which came as a pleasant surprise going by the visibly low colour extraction. A wine that is good with savoury food.

Damaskinos 2011 (Red) Alc 13%

Damaskinos means aromas of prunes, that according to the winemaker, gives this wine an unmistakable character. Sure enough, the medium ruby wine had cooked and dry fruit aromas along with a hint of mixed sweet spices such as vanilla and cinnamon. This was supplemented by a luscious palate of red apples, poached pears backed up by a smooth lingering finish.

Naoussa Grande Reserve 2008 (Red) Alc 13%

According to George, just the aromas of this wine could make you discern it’s rich character. Aged for two years in French oak barrels and rested in the bottle for at least two years before release, the wine had an expressive nose of black fruits, vanilla and a little spice. It had a palate coating consistency with pleasant tannins and lots of mixed berries on the palate.

My host, H.E. Ioannis E Raptakis, the Ambassador of Greece in India, informed me that after consistently promoting Greek olive oil and Feta cheese in India, the next step is to create an awareness of Greek wines in the country. The Ambassador  expressed lots of optimism about the prospect of Greek wines in India saying that India is one of their focus countries.

For the love of wine, this focus is more than welcome Mr. Ambassador!

You need good reason to celebrate another country’s independence day. If that reason hinges on wine and food, all the better. This July, it was the third year in a row that I conducted a French wine and cuisine experience titled Bienvenue (meaning “Welcome” in English). The occasion was the eve of the French national day, also called La Fête Nationale, Jour de Bastille or Quatorze Juillet. The event saw participation of the who’s who of Delhi’s wine circuit, with ardent support by wine importers as well as the Embassy of France in India. France being a major hub of wine and cuisine,it is quite logical that any French celebration cannot be devoid of these two  fascinating aspects of their culture. Not something that revelers would complain-of course!

Celebrated every 14th July, Jour de Bastille  signifies the onset of French revolution when revolutionaries stormed the  Bastille prison to free-up scores of their compatriots. This incident heralded the overthrowing of an oppressive monarchy and transfer of power to the French people. In terms of wine and spirits it meant transfer of ownership to common citizens and opening up of the markets that were erstwhile restricted to the royals and aristocrats.

The venue for this year’s soirée was Rara Avis – one of the few French  restaurants in the capital. Jerome Cousin, who comes from Alsace, is the chef and partner of the restaurant that is recognised for its avant garde cuisine. Together, with his oenophile Indian partner Rajiv Aneja, he makes a “Champagne and shellfish” team . With the authentic French touch on the plate, I could cover most French wine regions armed with a non-vintage Champagne, a red and a white Burgundy, a Rhône Red, two Bordeaux Reds, a Cognac and a liqueur from the Loire valley. The prices could be kept at sane levels courtesy the beverage sponsorships from Sula Selections, Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd. and vino india.

Generous support by  the Embassy of France in India and particularly the Ambassador H.E. François Richier (we received three exclusive wines from his private cellar) saw that the attendees had pleasant surprises in store too!

Speaking of the food and wines, the effort was to incorporate a traditional French meal with all courses listed out in proper nomenclature. It afforded the opportunity to acquaint everyone on common French terms including their literal meaning and pronunciation. A quiz on wine and food  with an attractive Bordeaux Red up for grabs saw everyone labour to get it right. But eventually the prized wine was everybody’s delight since the winning lady  shared it magnanimously with all during the dinner. The pairings are self explanatory from the menu given below:

As mentioned above, the wines presented a virtually 360° glimpse of France. Here is how they worked out.

Champagne Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut – A Pinot Noir dominated champagne with excellent structure as well as freshness.

Joseph Drouhin La Foret Bourgogne Blanc 2010– A crisp light Chardonnay with mineral undertones.

Domaine Boisson Cotes du Rhone 2012– A mouth filling juicy and spicy wine.

Ormes de Pez, St Estephe 2009– A Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. True to its pedigree, the wine was robust, fleshy and a worthy companion to the powerful main course. The star of the evening.

Chateau La Lauzette, Haut Medoc 2010 – A medium bodied wine with rounded tannins and black fruit flavours.

Joseph Drouhin La Foret Bourgogne Rouge 2009– A light bodied fruity-vegetal wine that went hand in glove with the assorted French cheeses.

Cointreau– The iconic and intense orange liqueur from Angers (Loire Valley).

Rémy Martin VSOP Cognac– A fine eau de vie aged for 4 years in French oak barrels.

The team at Rara Avis handled the wine service deftly with exact pours and optimal serving temperatures. They bust the myth that only five star properties in India are capable of immaculate wine service. I  now know which place to go for a quiet sip when in the writing mood!

With more such engagements planned, I share the sentiments of oenophiles with the French saying- La vie est trop courte pour boire du mauvaise vin– meaning- Life is too short to drink bad wine!

Sante, Salud and Cheers!

Recently when I was called upon to organize wine service for Ambassadors of 15 countries at the annual anniversary dinner of a luxury wine magazine, I knew that  the task was not simple. With each Ambassador bringing in wines from his/her respective country, the proposition was much like a doting parent going that extra mile to ensure the best foot forward for his ward! Even the slightest temperature variation would be noticed and decanting where due, had to be religiously done. To top it- one of the envoys had instructed to chill his wine 2°C-below the generally accepted norm, to accommodate the peak summer season. This brought me to factor-in even the ambient temperature of the glasses, some of which were laid out in non air conditioned spaces prior to serving.

Wine serving temperature is a hot (or rather chilled) topic of discussion amongst oenophiles. Slightest high  temperature and the wine seems more alcoholic, flaccid and uninspiring. A little too cold and it could be closed enough to be called unwelcoming. So is there a ‘just right’ serving temperature for each kind of wine? Or probably a safe range? Read on.

It’s no faux pas  if  you’ve ever called for an ice bucket for your red wine :When a red is served too warm, a few minutes submerged in ice and water will bring it down to an acceptable temperature—for the record, usually between 14°C and 18°C.

If you serve wine at the wrong temperature, you can destroy its fragile aroma compounds, affecting the taste. It isn’t an exact science, though—as with all aspects of wine, personal preference comes into it. But it is definitely not as simple as   ‘warm a red and chill a white’.

Such is the range of styles, from light, crisp Sauvignon Blanc to heavy, rustic Shiraz, that you can’t make a one-size-fits-all prescription when it comes to temperature. Each grape variety behaves differently. But there are a few ground rules.

An average household refrigerator will chill a bottle of wine down to 5°C in a few hours. As a rule of thumb, all sparkling wines, light, crisp and aromatic white wines—Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Vinho Verde and Soave—and pale rosés should be served straight from the fridge, between 5°C and 8°C. If you find this too cold, you can always warm the glass by cupping it in your hand. If the bottle is too cold, put it in a bucket of warm water for 10 minutes. If it isn’t cold enough, submerge it in ice and water for around 10 minutes—this will chill it much more quickly than a fridge.

More medium-bodied white wines, such as white Burgundy, Chardonnay, Sémillon, white Rioja and Viognier, and light, refreshing reds like Beaujolais, Chinon, fruity Pinot Noirs and Lambrusco, are best at 10°C to 15°C. This can be achieved by refrigerating the wine for around 1½ hours and then bringing it out of the fridge for a further 15 minutes before serving.

Heavy reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz are  best served at cellar temperature, 14°C to 18°C. Any cooler and you begin to mute the aromas and accentuate the tannins; not pleasant. If this happens in a restaurant, you can ask for a bucket of warm water to take the chill off—you may get some strange looks, but it’ll be worth it.

 

Odds are high that a cricket lover in India will not be aware of a wine brand, but flip this and any Indian wine lover will surely know who Glenn McGrath is. The Aussie cricketer has a universal charm and is idolized by zillions of fans in  cricketing nations . But what does an iconic cricketer have to do with a wine brand? Same as Sachin Tendulkar  with a Cola or  Virat Kohli with an Anti Dandruff Shampoo. Being celebrity consumers, they instil a certain confidence amongst  the general consumer about quality of the product that they endorse.

Hardys, the Aussie wine giant, have appointed McGrath as their Brand Ambassador and dedicated a special label to him called “Hardys Art of Cricket” . The label carries  ‘Pigeon’s’ (McGrath’s popular nick name)  photo and signature,with an obvious intent of  catching the wine  fancy of the Indian cricketing  buff.

I had the privilege of being invited to a special event called “Hardys fine Australian wine and True Aussie Lamb”  hosted by the Australian High Commissioner in India, H.E. Patrick Suckling at his residence in New Delhi this May. The highlight of the evening was  McGrath’s towering persona- staturewise as well as literally (at 6 ft 4 in tall).  The icon mixed freely with wine lovers patiently addressing all their cricket and wine queries. The wines for the evening though, were Hardys already  available “Stamp Collection”  as the “Art of Cricket” collection will hit the Indian market only by August this year as intimated by Sula Selections– Hardys’ importers in India.

Hardys is a well recognized wine brand synonymous with ‘value for money’ wines. It all started in  1857, when Thomas Hardy bottled his first vintage and became one of the first exporters of Australian wines. In India, their wines have been available since 2003. In Asia, Japan is the largest market for Hardys wines with India ranking an impressive eighth – very encouraging for a country with per capita consumption of just a few milliliters of wine.

The evening at New Delhi started with rounds of Hardy’s Pinot Noir Chardonnay followed by other variants of the Stamp Collection. To accompany the wines, there was a delightful dégustation menu put together by Chef Justin Zammit of Epicure (Brisbane) where  Aussie lamb in different preparations was the highlight. Pairings were as under:

(prices of wines are indicated ex Delhi/ Mumbai):

 

Hardys Pinot Noir Chardonnay Sparkling (₹ 1320/1755)

A balanced and fruity sparkling wine.
Served with corn fed chicken liver terrine with raisin chutney and rosemary brioche.

 

 

 

Hardys Riesling-Gewurztraminer (₹ 960/1390)

An aromatic wine with abundance of tropical fruits and an off-dry inclination.
Served with homemade duck prosciutto, honey black pepper glaze, rye bread crouton.

 

 

 

Hardys Chardonnay-Semillon (₹ 1060/1390)

A light and refreshing wine with stone fruit flavours.
Served with poached green asparagus, extra virgin olive oil, sun-dried heirloom tomatoes and herbal buffalo mozzarella (served warm in petit jars).

 

 

Hardys Cabernet-Merlot (₹ 820/1390)

An expressive wine, showing red berries and oak aromas accompanied by a fruity palate.
Served with charred yoghurt marinated Australian lamb, salad of baby cos and pomegranate, toum and za atar flat bread; Spring Australian lamb confit, potato mousseline and jus; Roasted Australian lamb loin, butternut pumpkin,smoked eggplant and semolina fondant.

 

 

Hardys Shiraz-Cabernet (₹ 1080/1390)

A robust wine with aromas of blackberries, dark cherries and spice with a complementing palate and an oaky finish.
Served with salt water Australian lamb, smoked carrot shavings and crisp ancient grains; Slow poached Australian lamb loin, coconut green curry.

 

Ann-Marie Battista, Hardys representative, told me that the brand is steeped in tradition and has won more than 9000 international wine awards. Hardys is largely recognised for being approachable, consistent, fun and dependable. Cricket mirrors these exact sentiments – technique, consistency, knowledge and years of hard work and perseverance. Hardys are honoured to introduce Glenn as their Brand Ambassador to India. “We believe our partnership with Glenn is perfect to raise Hardys brand awareness with wine consumers and become the Australian brand of choice in India”, added Ann-Marie.

“Both cricket and wine are pursuits of passion and it is my pleasure to bring these two together”, McGrath said. He claims that he lives to eat and does not eat to live. This association with Hardys will give him more chances to visit India, a country that he thinks of as his second home. In lighter vein, he also said that as a Brand Ambassador, he finds more acceptability amongst Indians since he is no longer bowling to Sachin Tendulkar!

McGrath was candid enough in sharing that he is not a wine expert but someone who is interested in good wines. Before his new role as Hardys brand ambassador, he spent time at the Hardys facility in Adelaide, understanding the intricacies of winemaking in order to be conversant with the winemaking philosophy of the brand.

The ‘pigeon’ looks set to fly the long haul.

P.S. I did manage to get an autograph as well!

This article is an adaptation from my original piece in  vino india

Avant garde food and wine pairings are a foregone conclusion when you break bread with a sommelier, specially one with a strong pedigree. Alessandro Nesi works for the Tuscany based Piccini – wines since 1882, and was in India for a 5 month stint with the Piccini’s importers, Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd. Alessandro’s brief was simple – to disseminate the essence of Italian wine and food in India – and he travelled from Delhi & Gurgaon to Chennai, Goa and Mumbai leaving the fine dine loving Indian in awe.

I was invited to share a meal with Alessandro by Sumit Sehgal, CEO Prestige.  I readily accepted in anticipation of the opportunity to exchange notes with a professional from the land of pastas, tomatoes, herbs and fromaggio- all very discreet ingredients for pairing with wines that he perhaps understood the best.

An Italian speciality restaurant in New Delhi – 28 The Capri was the venue for our rendezvous where Alessandro arrived with Sumit and his Marketing Manager, Sarang Kumar. We started off  like a Golf “fourball” – goblets and plates substituting the tees.

The wines

Given our time constraints, Alessandro selected two wines from the Piccini portfolio. We warmed up with a customary standalone tasting, as we browsed through the menu.

Piccini Pinot Grigio 2013

Pinot Grigio is known for its light but refined temperament and Piccini has preserved this essence. The varietal grows mostly in the cooler regions of North-eastern Italy, most prominently in Veneto. This wine has been produced with an affiliated winery in Veneto, to save the significant logistical challenge of transporting the fragile berries. With floral and subtle stone-fruit notes, the wine is all about freshness, whilst maintaining its easy going demeanour. This wine can be enjoyed even subconsciously while poring over a book or amid intense discussions at a working lunch.

Piccini Toscana Rosso

Alessandro suggested that this could be Chianti’s younger sibling owing to its Sangiovese dominated character in the blend of Malvasia Nera and Cillegiolo. The wine had delicious red fruit aromas, earthy undertones, a medium body and very supple tannins. A hard core red wine lover would desire more structure, if enjoyed on its own. But exploring it with food could reveal its dexterity to match its cousins in Chianti with equal aplomb.

Our lunch

We ‘teed off’ and ordered what each one of us thought would be probable matches from the menu. With the crisp Pinot Grigio, I chose the Caesar Salad with Bacon and Parmesan, while Alessandro preferred the Greek Salad with Feta, and Sumit and Sarang went for Grilled Chicken Bruschetta. Each of these dishes had some connect with the wine, and I discovered that good pairings can be bettered too, as the tangy and creamy character of the feta on Alessandro’s plate matched far better with the wine, than the bacon and parmesan on mine.

Next up, the pastas and pizza with the red. Alessandro ordered Pasta Barberesco and I went neck in neck with a Pasta Primavera. Sumit and Sarang provided a different dimension with the savoury All Chicken Pizza. The texture of the pastas being the same, the flavours ranged from vegetal to herbal and spice. And both pastas were equally good with the wine. The thin crust pizza with its savoury topping providing a nice angle to the overall meal that we all shared.

Wine is my calling

As the conversation winded through the meal, Alessandro’s wine story came across as absolute passion personified. I felt more to his personality than classic Italian charm. Inspite of clocking 20 years in the trade, he showed great composure despite his deceptive youthful appearance. He started in the trade without formal education, and studied at the prestigious FISAR Sommelier School after realizing his true calling. His approach towards wine changed and he transcended from mere technicalities to a deeper focus on appreciation, with a special focus on the consumer. And that, he believes, has made him relate to his wine customer better.

In Italy, Alessandro’s typical workday involves travelling to the various estates of the company, helping the wine maker choose blends and contributing to winery works. He also takes care of the promotion of the Piccini portfolio at tasting events and international fairs. His favourite wines from Italy are Chianti and Franciacorta. From outside of home, he has several favourites but bets strongly on Porto wines. Considering how young the Indian wine industry is, Alessandro feels that Indian wines are pretty decent, but has not tried enough to have a favourite.

On the Indian wine landscape

Speaking about his Indian séjour, he found the restaurants that were on his itinerary well prepared and very interested in continuous learning. On the wine storage front, he believes that a lot needs to be done. “I found very different situations regarding storage. Wine requires specific storage conditions viz. no light, temperature control, horizontal storage for cork closed bottles etc. As this represents high costs, many businesses are unable absorb them.” But he is optimistic though, and feels that as the wine culture grows in India, people will get more and more particular about their wines and things will be better.

I asked him the burning question, what about his best pairings with Indian food. He believes that spiciness is the main challenge, and wines that are rich in perfume, with low acidity and soft or no tannins would pair well. He vouches strongly for an extra dry Prosecco or an ‘appassimento’ (high residual sugar wine made from shriveled grapes) as complementary to Indian food.

The course ‘played’, and all players scoring well, it was time to pose for the ‘clubhouse’ photos. I insisted that Alessandro put on the elegant stole around his neck that he entered with, rather than his Sommelier’s jacket. Sure enough, the classic Italian charm reflected on the photo too!

(This writing has been adapted from my original work in vino india– news views and reviews from the market for wine in India)

Vin, vino or wein – these words strike a common chord since all of them mean “wine” as we know the word in English, and have an uncanny phonetic similarity. Similar meaning words across languages have some common aspects, whether it is the syllables or the phonetics. And these can be related-to sub consciously.

The details, however, lie in deliberation and this brings us to the subject of difficult- to-comprehend wine names, if only so, initially.

According to a forecast by IWSR, global wine consumption  is poised to show impressive growth in the run up to the year 2017. Intensive promotion activities have been rolled out in the preceding years to introduce wine even to Spirits consumers. And wine producers from around the world are enthusiastic to have a share of this pie. The only hitch? Unfamiliar label terminology particularly when related to wines not familiar to the respective consumer.

I was a bit surprised (even if pleasantly) to receive an invitation from the Ambassador of the Czech Republic in India H. E. Mr Miloslav Stašek for a tasting of Moravian wines from the Czech Republic (Czechoslovakia bifurcated into the ‘Czech Republic’ and ‘Slovakia’ in the early nineties).

The guest Sommelier from the Czech Republic, Aleš Pokorný, presented very attractively labeled Czech wines to an audience of wine professionals in New Delhi. At the outset, I found that the wines were enjoyable, specially the Irsai Oliver that was aromatic and off dry with characteristics quite close to the Muscat varietal.

But, the wines that evening hit a perception barrier – that of unfamiliar names and I could not get myself to enjoy it as much as I should. So I delved deeper, I found that this problem was surmountable, provided some basics were followed. And presto! The 1-2-3 approach to understand difficult Wine Labels was structured.

The genealogy of grapes

Ever since man started cultivating grapes, and trans-continental voyages became a reality, grape varietals have proliferated to distant lands from their place of origin. Further, graftings have yielded derived varietals, giving rise to new genomes. These varietals have been interpreted differently in the local languages – depending on the country of cultivation, similar varietals will get different names. For example, Pinot Blanc is Weiss Burgunder in Germany/ Austria; whereas in the Czech Republic it is Rulandské Bílé.

At times, varietal names may differ within different regions of the same country too, but that will take us into the next level . I was able to engage Aleš in both an extensive (over time) and intensive (in content) exchange, and I chose the Czech varietals as a case study.

Drawing these parallels, we can easily get acquainted with different sounding but essentially the same varietals.

One: Establish phonetic similarity

Does Ryzlink ring a bell? Does Sylvánské sounds familiar? Indeed, these are Riesling and Sylvaner respectively, as we commonly know them. Identify phonetic indicators in unfamiliar wine names and you are already half way there. Some examples:

Tramin = Gewurztraminer
Vlašský = Welsch
Rýnský = Rhine
Veltlínské = Veltliner
Zweigeltrebe = Zweigelt
Frankovka = Blaufrankisch

Two: Draw parallels

This exercise needs more effort, as the unfamiliar terms will have to be mapped to their common versions by querying the source (in my case Aleš) or Google. Some examples are:

Rulandské = Pinot
Bílé = Blanc
Modré = Noir
Modrý = Blue
Šedé = Gris
Pozdní Sber = Late Harvest
Jakostni = Quality
Víno S Prívlastkem = Highest classification in Czech wines

Three: Get it all together

The task is to leverage familiar words within a complete name and draw conclusions. The other terms in the label would invariably relate to the specific region from where the wine originates or quality related terminology.

Rulandské Modré Rosé = Pinot Noir Rosé
Víno S Prívlastkem = Quality wine
Kabinetní Víno = Quality sub-classification

Inference: A Pinot Noir Rosé wine with the quality sub classification ‘Kabinett’

Frankovka Rosé = Blaufrankisch Rosé
Víno S Prívlastkem = Quality wine
Pozdní Sber = Late Harvest

Inference: A Blaufrankisch Rosé wine made from late harvested grapes

Modrý Portugal = Blauer Portugieser
Víno S Prívlastkem = Quality wine
Výber Z Hroznu = Quality sub classification (selected grapes)

Inference: A Blauer Portugieser wine made from special selection of grapes.

There may however be exceptions, where the above logic will not apply because the particular grape varietal is native solely to a particular country. In such cases, there is no option but to remember the varietal and take down the tasting notes for posterity.

This model that I have detailed, can be applied to understand wines from any other country having local names for international grape varietals. So next time you are confronted by an alien looking wine label, just pause to look deliberately and you may well find your new love in wines.

(This is the blog version of my similar article in vino india)

Jacob’s Creek is India’s best known Australian wine. The brand that came into being in 1976, is owned by the multi-national wine and spirits giant Pernod-Ricard and is named after a place in South Australia where a gentleman called Johann Gramp planted his first vines on the banks of the Jacob’s Creek in 1847.

Recently, Jacob’s Creek launched a unique event, “The Longest Reserve Table”, for the first time in India on the 1st of March at hotel JW Marriott, New Delhi where I was invited to take a seat. Notching up a century of wine and food enthusiasts at one single table, the concept brings together people who love gourmet cuisine and good wines.

Being a Sunday, a relaxed mood amongst the attendees facilitated the right atmosphere for the rendezvous. However, the plans did go into a spin- albeit temporarily- due to an unforeseen wet spell in Delhi that necessitated the event to be shifted indoors. But thanks to the super efficient team at JW Marriott led by Ankur Chawla, the Beverages Manager, the transition was seamless (even if I was envious of fellow wine lovers in Bangalore, who were blessed with a lovely sunny day at the outdoors session).

The engagement started with a refreshing sparkling as Jacob’s Creek Pinot-Chardonnay  as the guests assembled. Made from two of the Champagne varietals, the wine is an easy going sparkling ideal as an aperitif and an excellent conversation starter.

As we sat down, a five course continental menu  crafted for this special table by Chef Pavan Kumar Chennam, Executive Sous Chef of the JW Marriott New Delhi Aerocity, was presented. The level of deliberation and understanding of the nuances was evident in the pairings.

My gauche et droite were occupied by my chosen wine friends, and we ordered different options from the menu so that we could get a panoramic view of the dining experience. We might have earned the ire of some fellow diners, as we did get quite excited at times as we exchanged notes.

Thus it went:

Course 1: Sous vide chicken with roasted pears and crispy frisée (NV) or Goat cheese and beetroot coulis with apricot chutney (V).

Wine pairing: Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay.

The sous vide chicken was tender and mild flavoured with the roasted pears and the frisée (a leafy vegetable) adding dimension to the flavour and texture. It worked well with the classic Australian oaked Chardonnay having stone fruits and creamy disposition. My vegetarian neighbour felt similarly, even if his tangy chutney spiced it up a bit more for him.

Course 2: Spiced root soup with sour cream and onion crisps.

Wine Pairing: Continue with Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay.

This was a delectable soup – creamy, nutty and toasty. It was quite engaging with the continuing wine, shoulder to shoulder with the refreshing acidity, and the toastiness of oak. Defying conventional wisdom, soup is not a waste of time with wine.

Course 3: Salad of white asparagus, green asparagus, toasted mustard, extra virgin olive oil and greens.

Wine Pairing: Jacob’s Creek Reserve Chardonnay.

Justifying its Reserve status, the wine had more complexity while retaining the common attributes of the previous one. It was a fuller wine with a honeyed feel and a softer demeanour. All this worked well with the varying textures of the salad components.

Course 4: Red Snapper with brown butter, celeriac purée and caper crumbs (NV) or Corn Fed Chicken with parsley, cous cous, country style potatoes, eryngii and enoki (NV) or Ravioli with zucchini caponata, four cheese and cured artichoke (V).

Wine Pairing: Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Cabernet and Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz.

Curious to try two robust red varietals with fish – which is a tough pairing according to conventional wisdom – I ordered the red snapper. Had it not been for the accompaniments, the pairing would have fallen flat. But, in the overall scheme it did sail through. Both my wine buddies who had ordered the corn fed chicken and the vegetarian option seemed quite happy.

The Shiraz Cabernet was very expressive on the nose with red fruits and spice accompanied by a rounded luscious palate. It is a supple wine, effortlessly elegant on the palate. The Reserve Shiraz was the big brother with ripe black fruit flavours, pronounced oak overtones and a firmer structure.

Course 5: Cherry, Lemon and Mascarpone Tart with mulled Jacob’s Creek ice cream.

Wine Pairing: Jacob’s Creek Rose Sparkling.

The salmon-pink wine had aromas of fresh red cherries, strawberries and sliced baguette. On the palate, it was refreshing as well as creamy with mixed berry flavours. A dry wine with dessert always remains a challenge, but the fruity nature can pull it off. In my opinion, the chef approached the pairing with a great deal of insight by incorporating a wide flavour profile (sweet, sour and umami) so that it worked for the majority in some way or the other.

My biggest anticipated challenge was the service. I wondered if so many people could be taken care of at one go – one single table added one extra level of unforgiving complexity. But, the service was immaculate and extremely precise throughout.

Commenting on the launch of the series, Jacob’s Creek Reserve Table, Kartik Mohindra, Business Head – International Brands at Pernod Ricard India said, “The Jacob’s Creek Longest Reserve Table offers consumers a unique dining experience, showcasing our range of very expressive varietal wines and their versatility with various cuisines.”

It’s community dining of gastronomy enthusiasts – with the fine dining flair. If you are wondering how this might be, then the closest you can possibly get is by booking a place online at the next “Longest Reserve Table” in your city in April or book your very own ‘Reserve Table’ by making an online reservation at www.reservetableindia.com. Priced at  ₹2500 to Rs. ₹3000 per person  it promises to be good value for your money.

Buoyed by the success of the program, Kartik shared with me that following this launch, the hotels will be offering 3 course meals paired with Jacob’s Creek wines in four leading restaurants of each city. The focus will be to pair the wines with the culinary expertise of the respective chefs.

It’s fine dining – la style grande!

(Published in vino india)

The week gone by was  an unforgettable culinary voyage for me. It began with lunch with a sommelier from Italy, and culminated in two very special events related to Gôut de France– a culinary extravaganza that unfolded across the world to promote French cuisine.

Gôut de France meaning “Taste of France”  was a program launched this January by Laurent Fabius, the French Minister for Foreign affairs  and Alain Ducasse, the world renowned 3-Michelin-starred chef,  to celebrate French gastronomy worldwide.

The program envisaged over 1300 chefs serving a “French-style dinner” on 19 March 2015,  on all five continents. The menu for these dinners  incorporated  a  traditional French aperitif, a cold starter, a hot starter, fish or shellfish, meat or poultry, a French cheese (or cheeseboard) and a chocolate dessert with each course accompanied by French wines and digestifs. In this whole ambit, respective chefs had the flexibility to  highlight their own culinary traditions and cultures.

I was privileged to attend two events pertaining to Gôut de France. The first  was a curtain raiser dinner on 17 March 15 at the enchantingly beautiful residence of H.E. François Richier, the Ambassador of France in India. The other one was Gôut de France dinner itself, at the resplendent Qube restaurant at Hotel Leela Palace, New Delhi.

My focus understandably being wine, the first thing I noticed from the menu at The Qube, was that it represented wines from literally all corners of France- be it the North East (Champagne), North West (The Loire Valley), South West(Bordeaux) or South East (The Rhone Valley). Christophe Gillino– the Chef de Cuisine at Qube had obviously done his homework well and that was no surprise, knowing of his work-experience with Alain Ducasse himself at  the three Michelin starred “Le Louis XV” in Monaco.

Coming to the dinner, eight exotic courses were spread over two hours with well synchronised beverage pairings. Since Christophe comes from Aix-en-Provence, a  touch of Provençale cuisine could be noticed in the overall ensemble.  The  experience went thus:

Hors d’œuvre

Assorted gougères pass around with Champagne

Wine: GH MUMM Cordon Rouge Brut

The gougères  sandwiched an assortment of  goat cheese, tapenade and anchoïade, served with pesto sauce. These offered an excellent repertoire of flavours in small measures. All of them worked  well with the refreshing and autolytic Champagne.

Entrée

Chilled lobster consommé with black truffle, artichoke mousseline with green lemon

Wine: Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côtes du Rhône “Parallèle 45” Blanc 2006

Côtes du Rhône Blanc is one of my favourites when it comes to a white wine with food because it invariably has voluptuous and aromatic traits rendered often by Grenache blanc and  Viognier varietals.

I found the “Paralelle 45” Blanc 2006 to be a complex wine with floral and stone fruit characteristics accompanied by a surprisingly good level of acidity- given its vintage. This complexity was essential for the equally complex repas having the subtlety of lobster and an ample body imparted by the artichoke mousse.

Roasted sweetbread with orange and carrot reduction, mustard seeds and parsley

Wine: Henri Bourgeois Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2011

The nomenclature “sweetbread” can be quite confusing for the uninitiated since it is not a bread in the classical sense. However its French equivalent terminology as Ris d’agneau implied thyroid gland of lamb as I confirmed from the chef. The dish was a riot of flavours/ textures with the creamy Ris supplemented the savoury orange and carrot reduction well. The mustard seeds and parsley lent it additional dimensions in terms of sharpness and aromatics. All this worked in sync with the wine that had tropical, citrus fruits, toasty aromas/flavours and a peppery finish.

Main Course

Steamed sea bass with herb coulis,ginger, compressed tomato, asparagus and coconut milk

Wine: Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet 2013 (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle)

By far the most successful generic Bordeaux brand, the Mouton Cadet range has consistently delivered high value to wine lovers everywhere. The wine was dry and light bodied with a refreshing acidity and aromas/flavours of tropical fruits, noticeably melons and lychees. On the food part, the tender and creamy sea bass worked in contrast with the acidic compressed tomatoes, the pea-puree stuffed morel mushrooms, the coconut milk and asparagus  sauce, to offer a multi dimensional taste palette worthy of the wine.

Grilled Charolais or Chicken with liquorices jus, celeriac ravioli with saffron, aragula and dandelion, coffee foam

Wine: Baron Philippe de Rothschild Cadet d’Oc 2013 (Cabernet Sauvignon)

Cadet d’Oc is an easy going delicious wine with intense red fruit aromas and  red cherries, oak, spice on the palate. For food, I went for the  chicken option (with skin) and it had a wonderful crunch leading to decadence. The celeriac purée stuffed ravioli and the floral, spicy characteristics of the other constituents added to the flavour profile. The wine had plenty of traits to identify with this dish.

Assiette de Fromage (Cheese Course)   

Grilled Roquefort toast with banana and salad leaves

Wine: Le St Émilion d’Adet Seward 2011

The banana sliver on the toast beneath the melted Roquefort  was very innovative as it lent just the right amount of sweetness to the sharp and salty cheese. The greens brought in the freshness element. This dish proved that the most beautiful things are often the simplest.  The wine was very approachable and anticipatedly fruity- being from the  right bank of Bordeaux. With rounded tannins, a medium body and good acidity, it blended well with the course.

Dessert Course

Chocolate sphere with grilled coffee, vanilla and ginger emulsion

Liqueur: Cointreau

The arrival of this course was a treat to watch as a  diligent serving staff poured a stream of hot chocolate over the soft chocolate sphere- which started melting to reveal the ice cream and brownie inside. Complemented with the vanilla and ginger emulsion, it justified the Cointreau pairing not only for the matching sweetness but also for the additional orange flavour dimension.

Mignardises & Chocolats

My dinner concluded with  green tea and delectable Mignardises & Chocolats (bite sized dessert served at the end of a meal) around a passionate discussion with Chef  Gillino on the making of this memorable menu. I departed with a lingering Gôut de France.

I’m sure many others around the globe would also have.

Last year was the year of impetus for Austrian wines in India. With three masterclasses spread over 8 months, the Austrians treated the Indian palate to a finish that is bound to linger for a long time. I was privileged to be a part of all the three masterclasses and the regulars with Guns to Gewürztraminer would recall my coverage of these. If this sounds alien, and you can spare some time, please go through the individual  links given within this post. If not, then this post is  just right for you.

Recently I wrote an overview of all three of these masterclasses for vino india. The aim was to give a bird’s eye view of  what the Austrians achieved and what are their further plans. To ascertain the details, I got in touch with the stakeholders on the Austrian side  and found that they are mighty pleased at the outcome. It should suffice to say that  Indian wine lovers can expect to find lot many Austrian wines to explore in the coming times.

Here is a fast track account of all the masterclasses and an insight into the road ahead:

Masterclass # 1

Aim: Introduction of wines from different regions of Austria.

Wine statistics: 58 wines from 13 wineries. 14 wines in the masterclass, the rest were available at the walk-around tasting.

Flying in from Austria: Rudolf Trischler from Sunny Grapes, the marketing agency for the wines represented.

About the session: An emphasis on the terroir, typical grape varietals and pronunciation. Departing from the conventional ‘Whites first, Reds after’, the wines were presented region-wise. This allowed a better understanding of the Loess (calcerous clay and silt soil with fossil fragments) influenced minerally wines from Lower Austria and the ripe full bodied reds as well as the noble rot driven sweet wines from the sunny and marshy Burgenland.

For details on the session # 1 click here to read my earlier post

Masterclass # 2

Aim: Showcasing the entire Austrian quality pyramid.

Wine statistics: 81 wines from 12 wineries. 17 wines in the masterclass, the rest were available at the walk-around tasting.

Flying in from Austria: Christian Dworan, Marketing Manager from the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

About the session: The wines presented a good mix of international as well as Austrian native varietals. The aim of showcasing the Austrian wine classification system was well served by enabling sampling in a vertical graduation of the quality pyramid starting from a Kabinett, Spätlese and finishing with a Trockenbeerenauslese.

For details on the session # 2 click here to read my earlier post

Masterclass # 3

Aim: Summing up the three master classes and highlighting DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus).

Wine statistics: 63 wines from 8 wineries. 17 wines in the masterclass, the rest were available at the walk-around tasting.

Flying in from Austria: Michael Thurner, former Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board could not arrive from Singapore due to a cancelled flight. Represented by the Austrian Trade Commissioner, Dr Wolfram Moritz.

About the session:  A diverse range of wines were included in the familiar but fine tuned format. The highlight of the session was a deep insight into the DAC – the  specified quality wines producing regions of Austria, similar to the French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). Austria has eight specific districts that permit wine to be produced only from the specified varietal(s). These are:

1. Eisenberg (Bläufrankisch)
2. Kamptal (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling)
3. Kremstal (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling)
4. Leithaberg (Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuberger, Bläufrankisch)
5. Mittelburgenland (Bläufrankisch)
6. Neusiedlersee (Zweigelt)
7. Traisental (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling)
8. Weinviertel (Grüner Veltliner)

I was able to evaluate similar wines from different regions, draw comparisons between native Austrian and international varietals and taste wine verticals from the same winery. A dégustation menu by the Lemon Tree, Delhi kept the wines in good company.

For details on the session # 3 click here to read my earlier post

The Results

In conclusion, did the trilogy of master classes yield desirable results? Dr. Wolfram Moritz, Trade Commissioner & Commercial Counsellor at the Austrian Embassy in New Delhi, believes that they did. The response has been extremely positive and encouraging. “Through these events, a wide range of Austrian wines – white, red and sweet – were introduced to the relevant people in the wine business, who were pleasantly surprised with the quality of Austrian wines. We received a lot of commercial queries on bringing these wines to the market”, elaborated Dr. Moritz.

The same sentiment is echoed by Christian Dworan, who feels that the primary aim of the AWMB to connect with a lot of enthusiastic wine people and wine specialists in India was well served with these master classes. The elements of uniqueness (climate, land, grapes, culture, people & nature, value for money, food pairing) for Austrian Wine were highlighted. Mr. Dworan is also pleased with the ‘media echo’ of these events that have created the right atmosphere for awareness on Austrian wines in India.

Next Steps

Mr. Dworan shared with me that in 2015, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board would monitor the market closely to consolidate the gains already made. Dr. Moritz hopes to see more Austrian wines available in the Indian market in the near future, despite the cumbersome tax regime. The Austrian Trade Commission plans a series of smaller events to promote Austrian wines.

The Austrians are clearly in the “Exploit” phase. In the interest of getting more opportunities to explore these fascinating wines, I wish them well.

(Published in vino india)

One fine day  in  2010 when I was still in my Army uniform, I received an e- mail from Wine and Spirit education Trust, London. The mail communicated that I was being considered for the Champagne Scholarship courtesy my distinguished performance in their curriculum; and that  I would be interviewed by the ambassador of Champagne in India to take the process forward.

My excitement was but naturally, a foregone conclusion. The first question that came to my mind was- “Who was the ambassador of Champagne in India and what possibly would he speak to me about?” Ringing up a couple of friends in the wine industry I was updated that  the ambassador of Champagne in India was a certain Mr. Rajiv Singhal, a pioneering personality in the Indian wine scenario. None of my friends however, had an inkling of what could be the interview like.

Circa 2015 and as if steered by destiny, I have teamed up with the same gentleman i.e. Mr Rajiv Singhal,  to launch  vino india– a new initiative in the Indian wine space. Much wine has obviously flown through the barrels ever since I received that  coveted interview call.  It is  therefore incumbent upon me to share this news with the esteemed readers of Guns to Gewürztraminer –  my  raison d’être in the  vinous cyber space .

So what is vino india ?

Vino india is an e-newsletter that has been founded to create a digital experience for trade professionals as well as consumers – both in India and overseas. It aims to provide updates from the Indian wine scenario in an unbiased manner while shunning ‘patronage’ driven content.

My role in vino india?

I am the Managing Editor of vino india. Rajiv is the Chief Executive. But more importantly we are partners in wine passion, with our individual capabilities harnessed for the wine cause.

The relation between Guns to Gewürztraminer and vino india

First the differences between the two.  The former is a blog while the latter is a newsletter. The former is an individual sharing of wine passion while the latter has- as the tagline says-  news, views and reviews from the market for wine in India.

As individual entities Guns to Gewürztraminer and vino india are unrelated in purpose and function. But by virtue of my being the Managing Editor, there will be some content from vino india authored by me, that I would like the readers of Guns to Gewürztraminer not to miss out on .  Such shared posts will be acknowledged  with a simple statement in italicised blue colour as “Published in vino india” towards the end of the respective posts.

I am sure this would give you a fair idea on vino india . If interested in knowing more, do take some time off to visit www.vinoindia.in where you will also find the inaugural issue. Subscription to vino india is monetarily free . So do also bless it by subscribing if you like what you see.

Santé, Salud and Cheers!