Wine

It was one of those rare  occasions when the ‘lead artist’ took a backseat in favour of the ‘supporting cast’. As Alexander Zorin, Vice President Sales from Riedel, one of the most respected wine glass companies, unpacked the last of  tasting sets for the ensuing session on varietal specific glassware, anticipation ran high. We were all eager to experience the difference in perceiving wine from optimized Vs. generic glassware. For a change, it was the glass to do the talking rather than wine. The session was conducted at Akira Back- the Japanese-Korean restaurant at hotel JW Marriott Aerocity New Delhi.   I was in attendance at the invitation of my good friend Ankur Chawla, Director of Beverages at the hotel who also plays a larger role in Marriott’s Beverages Committee for Asia-Pacific.

A Wine Tool

The Riedel philosophy unabashedly announces a wine glass as a ‘tool’ that facilitates appreciating the bouquet, texture, taste and finish of a particular wine. To come to this conclusion, they cite their decades of research to arrive at optimum shapes and sizes of the respective glasses. Though Riedel have a history of producing glass dating back to 1756, it was only in the 1950’s that they started producing wine-friendly stemware.  It all began when at a casual gathering, guests were called upon to fetch their glasses from a nearby cabinet and Claus Riedel, their 9th generation helmsman discovered that the same wine tasted differently in the melee of  resulting assortment. He narrowed down on the best glass for the particular wine and  the foundation for grape varietal glassware was laid.

How Glassware Influences Tasting

Most of us probably know that human tongue has distinct sensory regions related to different taste profiles. Over time, the demarcation of these regions has evolved as a ‘tongue map’. The theory has been challenged though, in the form of subsequent research confirming that all taste qualities are found in all areas of the tongue. But in the wine context, the tongue map theory has been largely corroborated and glassmakers like Riedel have emphatically proved its relevance.

The taste of wine is largely defined by it’s ‘initial attack’ (how it is perceived immediately on sipping) and the ‘finish’ (the lingering taste after you have gulped it down). ‘Varietal specific’ glassware looks at fine tuning the drinking experience by channeling the wine onto desirable places- taking the tongue map as a guide. Level of acidity, fullness of body, vigorousness of tannins are some of the wine traits sought to be accentuated/subdued using the ‘right’ kind of glass. On the aroma front too, the shape of glass determines how focused or dissipative the bouquet of a wine can get.

Alexander informed us that in the initial years, some reputed Bordeaux producers complained to Claus Riedel of their wines not tasting appreciably well in his red wine glass.  The observation compelled Claus to further research, only to realise that the glasses in question were designed with Piemontese wines in mind. This egged him further to come up with specific glasses for Bordeaux wines, followed by several others. Today Riedel glasses have a range of approximately 450   different shapes that cater to the whims and fancies of their finicky ‘occupants’.

Riedel Technicalities

So how does the fluid mechanics of wine get affected   in such specialized glassware? The Riedel philosophy looks at three parameters:

• Shape of the bowl
• Size of the bowl
• Rim diameter of the bowl

Apart from the above, the stem and base of the glass form an important part of its architecture, to promote stability.

These  parameters determine how much wine is contained in the bowl, how it moves within, and how it gets directed inside your mouth. Sounds too technical? Imagine yourself puckering your lips to sip from a narrow mouthed glass vis-a-vis a broad mouthed one. The wine in the former case will tend to flow towards centre of the palate rather than filling it up instantly as in the latter.

The Validation

The proof of a pudding is in its eating, hence we took our places at the neatly arranged table that had five glasses each, precisely arranged on printed mats on their respective places. 4 glasses from Riedel’s Veritas (their grape varietal specific range) completed the ensemble with a water tumbler as the ‘joker’.

Alexander started the experience by urging the participants to pour some water in all the glasses, to sip from each and feel how differently it flowed inside the mouth. The initial point was made and well received.

The wines followed, with each of them sampled from the respective varietal specific as well as the other glasses. The comparisons stood out starkly with each wine blossoming optimally only from its respective glass while appearing comparatively lackluster from others.

For example, the aromatic Sauvignon Blanc (SB) was subdued  in the Oaked Chardonnay glass and the Chardonnay returned the favour by appearing too limp from the SB glass. Similarly the Cabernet blend demonstrated good balance from the Cabernet Sauvignon glass while it appeared too tannic from the SB glass.

The constant juggling of glasses during this exercise did feel like a musical chairs, but achieved the intent- of experiencing first hand, the relevance of varietal specific glassware.

The Bottomline

Does all this mean that we junk our ‘average Joe’ red and white wine glasses and start buying new glassware? Not exactly. Even Riedel have a generic glass recommendation from their range (Vinum XL Shiraz for red wine and Ouverture Magnum/Riesling Grand Cru/Chianti Classico for white wine ). However for obvious reasons, they would  recommend people buying the varietal specific stuff. In my opinion, buying such specialized glassware would be good idea if you satisfy all of the following conditions:

• You regularly drink high pedigree wines at home.
• You have the moolah to spare (specialisation always comes at a cost).
• Storage space is not a constraint.
• You have the inclination of going that extra mile to maximize your wine experience.

The last point is most important as I realized when a multi millionaire wine connoisseur friend once told me- “I would rather spend more on wine than fussing over glasses”. But then, there was also this regular wine lover friend who couldn’t stop raving about his newly acquired Riedel’s Vinum tasting set .

As for me, the Veritas tasting set gifted by Alexander will keep me occupied for days to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Passion knows no barriers of language or nationality, and this was at its demonstrable best as Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, the President of Italy’s National Wine Committee, struck an instant rapport with vinos in New Delhi even as he spoke in Italian with an interpreter at hand. Dr. Martelli was speaking at “The Sweet Taste”, a workshop showcasing Italian food and wine conducted under the aegis of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.

About Dr. Giuseppe Martelli

An oenologist and biologist, Dr. Martelli, taught at the Viticulture and Oenology Institute in Conegliano (Treviso). He worked at the Italian Ministry of Agriculture’s Experimental Viticulture and Oenology Institute and at the “Tenute Sella & Mosca” farmstead in Alghero.

Since 2009, he has been the President of the National Wine Committee (under the Italian Republic’s Ministry of Agriculture), which is the major consultation and proposal body in the wine sector. He is also the Honorary President of the Union Internationale des Oenologues, a Paris-based Federation that represents the National Viticulture Technicians Associations worldwide, where he earlier served as full time president from 2003-08. In an earlier role, Dr. Martelli was the Managing Director of the Italian Oenologists Association (Assoenologi), the National Trade Organisation of Viticulture Technicians from 1978-2016.

My interaction with Dr. Martelli was facilitated by Ms. Mahima Yadav, Assistant to the Director of the Italian Trade Agency in New Delhi, who very kindly offered to be the interpreter despite her hair-splitting schedule.

Dr. Martelli’s thoughts

Me: What are the major functions of National Wine Committee (NWC) of Italy?

Dr. Giuseppe Martelli (GM): The National Wine Committee is the most important advisory body of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Italy in the wine sector. It comprises of 28 people representing the main categories of the wine sector, appointed by the Minister of Agriculture. It was established in 1964 and since then, its key objectives remain unchanged. Its purpose is to give opinion, in accordance with current legislation, on questions related to wines in general and on wines with denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin (DOC and DOCG, or DOP in the European Union) and in specific geographical location (IGP in the European Union). The views of the NWC are published in the Official Gazette of the Republic of Italy.

Me: According to an IWSR study, Italy doubled its wine exports to India in the period 2008-12 and is currently the second largest exporter to India. France remains the top exporter in terms of value despite not being among the top here exporters to India. Do you think Italy will address this?

GM: France has been investing in the presentation and communication of its wines in India for a very long time, while Italy has joined in only recently as India is a market of rising importance. Hence, it’s logical that French wines are better known in India. But, I believe that the alert and experienced Indian consumer is getting increasingly closer to the Italian producers, and in the coming years, will certainly prefer our bottles, being fascinated not only by the quality of the content, but also by the history and the culture that characterizes every production of ours.

Me: India is among the “significant markets of long term”. What initiatives are planned to promote Italian wines in India?

GM: The Italian Trade Agency (ITA) in New Delhi under their new Director, Dr. Francesco Pensabene, is proposing an initiative to promote Italian products in India with great professionalism. I believe that the exchange of opinions, insights and advice initiated by the ITA have been working well in this respect. “The Sweet Taste” initiative, for which we are here, is concrete evidence of this headway.

Me: The last edition of Vinitaly in India was in 2010. What might be the reason for this? Can we hope to see another edition of Vinitaly in India in the near future?

GM: The Verona fair, Vinitaly, cannot be present everywhere, and has limited its conduct to three markets: USA, Russia and Hong Kong. Personally, I believe that since the consumption of wine is not that high in India, producers prefer to go directly to the importers, buyers, opinion leaders and journalists, rather than approaching the consumer directly. Therefore, I believe that the role of the Italian Trade Agency and the Embassy of Italy in India becomes even more important to promote Italian wines.

Me: The Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between India and the European Union is still under discussion. Are you hopeful of its successful conclusion?

GM: This question is complex and demands the attention of the relevant agencies and government bodies. I really hope that it will soon come to a definition where it takes into account the requirements of both India and Europe, in the interests of the wine trade. There is no denying the fact that taxes on imported wine in India are amongst the highest in the world – and this often discourages those who believe strongly in Indian markets and are willing and determined to invest.

Me: In your opinion, what are the factors that may work in favour of Italian wines in India?

GM: By increasing the knowledge of our wines, first at the level of opinion leaders and trade and then at the consumer level, a perception of “value for money” can be instilled. I know that the Indian consumer, as generations before him, is pre-disposed to aperitifs with a super high alcoholic base. I hope that the new generations appreciate Italian white wines as aperitifs, not only for their alcoholic strength but also for the delicacy and fragrance that the wines express and allow you to drink more – hence allowing a longer socialization. Having said that, I feel that Italian wines are more suitable to the high temperatures of the climate in your country, as well.

However, given the delicacy, the tastes, the strength and the variety of your Indian kitchen, I am sure that a better understanding of the potential success of classic Italian red wines – robust and appropriately aged – will happen in India. And of course, all the above is subject to the level of duties and import taxes that your country upholds!

(This interview was first published in vino india)

Barely a month back  as I attended the seminar ‘Austrian Wines- 7 Elements of Uniqueness’ conducted during the Austrian wine fair VieVinum 2016 in Vienna, I asked a question to Willi Klinger, Managing Director Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) who was chairing the seminar- “when would the much talked about new Austrian Wine Law be formalised?” Willi replied- “anytime now”. Sure enough, even before I could embark on the trip back home, the new law that seeks to make Austrian wine simpler yet more precise, came into effect.

The action on these amendments was going on for sometime, and these reforms finally came into effect on 14 June 2016 in the form of an amendment to the Wine Law of 2009.  Among other matters, the amendments encompass modifications to the existing appellatives of wine-growing regions and vineyards.

So what is the fuss all about? To put things in perspective, let us first look at the generic Austrian wine classification in the image below (feel free to download and share):

 

The New Amendments

The overall essence of the new amendments is to represent various levels of Austrian wine unambiguously and with greater consumer-friendliness. The graphic below covers the salient aspects:

The Details

A Tailwind for the “Rieden”

The demarcation of single vineyard sites, which has been progressing according to the laid out plan in all wine-growing regions, has received new impetus from the amendment to the wine law. It has been determined that wines with a vineyard designation must bear the word “Ried” on the label before the name of the vineyard, i.e. when the word “Ried” appears before a geographic (topographic) designation, it will indicate that the wine has come from a legally defined single vineyard site.

With this provision, wines from single vineyards become recognisable at a glance to the consumer, easily distinguished from branded wines or wines with spurious indications of origin. Growing consciousness about the importance of a clear system for indicating origins has also found expression in the regions Kamptal, Kremstal and Traisental, wherein the DAC wines of these regions have been arranged according to law in a benchmark three-tier system – “Regional-”, “Village-” or “Single Vineyard-” wine. In this structure, classification of the wines must observe a predetermined minimum alcohol content.

Modifications to indications of origin in Burgenland and Steiermark

In order to avoid unnecessary duplication, the Burgenland wine producing appellations Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland and Südburgenland have been eliminated. In future, all Qualitätswein from Burgenland will show the generic wine-growing region “Burgenland” on the label.

Only the regionally typical DAC wines shall henceforth be permitted to bear the designation of their specific wine-growing regions – Neusiedlersee DAC, Leithaberg DAC, Mittelburgenland DAC or Eisenberg DAC.

Parallel to this, the Grosslage (large vineyard site) “Südburgenland” is being created to replace the former Grosslagen “Pinkatal” and “Geschriebenstein”.

Pursuant to the amendment, the wine-growing region “Süd-Oststeiermark” in the hilly southeast of Austria shall be renamed “Vulkanland Steiermark” – far more expressive in the conceptual sense.

Ausbruch: exclusively from the Free City of Rust
Special attention has been paid to the Austrian Prädikat wines, particularly the Ausbruch. With the changes to the wine law coming into effect, the term “Ausbruch” is defined as a Trockenbeerenauslese – and as an exclusive, protected indication of origin for Ruster Ausbruch – thus reserved for Trockenbeerenauslesen from Rust. No other wines may henceforth bear the designation “Ausbruch”.

Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin
In a process of discussions taking place over the course of several years, the Austrian Sekt Committee – together with a committee of growers conducting their own tirage, in concert with experts of the Winegrower’s Association, the Chamber of Commerce, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and the Federal Agricultural Ministry – have developed new regulations with the goal of enhancing the position of Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin (Sekt g.U.). Building upon this, the amendment to the wine law now provides that the Minister for Agriculture and Forestry, Water and the Environment is empowered to determine and specify all details pertaining to Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin by means of an ordinance to be filed under seal at a future date.

This ministerial decree will – among other things – stipulate that Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin can be sold only when bearing the defining terms “Klassik”, “Reserve”, or “Grosse Reserve”. Hereby the sales description must be composed of the category (Österreichischer Qualitätsschaumwein or Sekt), the name of the protected designation of origin (in the cases of Klassik and Reserve, solely the name of the Austrian federal state; in the case of Grosse Reserve: federal state and municipality or part of it; in special cases also Grosslage or Ried) and the term “geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung” (Protected Designation of Origin) or “g.U.”. Furthermore, the regulations and the conditions applying to its enactment will also establish standards with regard to methods of vinification and interval of élevage on the lees, as well as alcohol content and residual sugar content for the individual tiers.

Austrian wine: Full Speed Ahead

According to the AWMB, standstill is a step backwards. Hence the Austrian authorities are currently working relentlessly to fine tune the unique and distinctive profile of Austrian wine. The evolution of wine laws is considered by them as a pre-requisite towards a successful future for Austrian wine. The latest amendments promise to be a step towards that direction.

With excerpts from a Press Release by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.

 

June 2016 was super active month for Guns 2 Gewürztraminer. Before you wonder about the veracity of this claim- considering it has been more than a month since my latest post, this has been exactly the reason why! I was on a whirlwind tour to Austria and Italy, exploring the world of wine, barely finding time to awaken the mobile screen to capture the beautiful but fleeting moments. Moments that I am now well equipped to share in subsequent posts. As a start, I endeavour to give you a bird’s eye view  of this wine journey through a route map and five collages coupled with summary description of what I call ” a picture perfect wine journey’.

1. VieVinum 2016

This grand Austrian wine fair happened in it’s 10th edition between 4-6 June 2016 with exclusive pre-event engagements for invitees. The fair has grown rapidly over the years and it showcases a mammoth range of Austrian wines along with some international presence. Organised under the aegis of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) it aims to promote Austrian wine industry in a focussed manner. Apart from tasting a 1000++ wines, the icing on the cake for me was to converse one-on-one with Mr. Wilhelm (Willi) Klinger, Managing Director Austrian Wine Marketing Board (see bottom right photo of the collage). The interview will appear shortly in print, as well as in this space.

2. Visiting Weingut Elfenhof, Rust, Burgenland

The picturesque town of Rust in Burgenland, Austria can easily be called a storybook quartier, replete with its floral promenades, a 315 km²  lake Neusiedl and expansive vineyards peppered all across . Weingut Elfenhof is a 17th century winery of the region that produces a diverse range of quality wines. Ernst Holler, the current generation owner (seen in the collage with me) was kind enough to pick me up from Vienna and host me in his town for a day full of vineyard and winery action. The time flew just too fast…

3. Friuli- the under reported wine region of Italy

Even the folks in Friuli were pleasantly surprised that I chose the region for an elaborate itinerary when in general, the whole world  thinks of Tuscany as their first choice of exploring the Italian wine country. But let me tell you- if you have not explored, wines like Ribolla Gialla, Friulano (earlier known as Tocai Friulano), Refosco, Tazzelanghe, Picolit, ‘Orange Wines’ and several others, it would be a good idea to do so at the earliest- as there is a whole wide world of enchanting wines lying out there. As for Tuscany, it was my next stop quite logically……

4.  Banfi and Piccini- the Tuscan racehorses

The names need no introduction. Banfi- for their groundbreaking research on the Sangiovese vine to produce outstanding Brunello and Super Tuscan wines and Piccini- the distinctive ‘orange label’ producer of Chianti wines who have innovative wines like the pan-Italian blend called ‘Memoro’ in their portfolio.  Oscillating between Florence, Siena and Montalcino, I was on a roll (much like the Tuscan slopes) to meet the owners, visit vineyards with winemakers and sample countless wines around choicest cuisine.

5. The sophisticated charm of Allegrini

Be it the high vineyards of the Valpolicella DOC, one of the top Amarones from the region, or a unique Brunello from their Tuscan vineyards , the house of Allegrini evokes acknowledged respect amongst winelovers. Hence it was only natural for me to visit them, given just a day’s schedule in the region. Meeting and conversing with their indefatigable owner Marilisa Allegrini in this short duration was nothing less than a stroke of luck.

 

Often, when presented with an elaborate wine list in a restaurant, the diner is strained to narrow down an option for the occasion especially if (s)he is pressed for time. The experience is not different from a “child in a candy shop” and it has nothing to do with the level of wine knowledge.

Private labels come to the rescue. Sourced exclusively for the restaurant, these wines are chosen to match best with the cuisine. These are the go-to wines, in case sommelier’s advice is not on hand. Private labels are created for the buyer using some custom inputs (brand, design, etc.) at the winery, and are not available elsewhere. In addition to this exclusivity, the supply chain from vineyard to table is short (no intermediaries) and the wines should arrive in an optimal condition.

All of this is done to offer a better wine experience for the guests at the restaurants, which has been designed with them in mind.

The Lalit Hotels have recently introduced a private label offer of French wines at the New Delhi property. These wines have been sourced from Domaine de la Pigeade (DDLP) located in the foothills of Mont Ventoux in the south of the Rhône Valley. DDLP is a member of the Vignerons Indépendants de France (Independent winemakers of France) Association that promotes best practices for self-sustaining operations by small and independent winemakers. DDLP is a small wine house that produces all wine from their own vineyards, under very tight quality control.

Mr. Keshav Suri, Executive Director, The Lalit Hotels supported this endeavour. Charles Donnadieu, the Corporate Wine Sommelier for The Lalit Hotels, hopes to deliver the very essence of the region (where he grew up appreciating these wines with family and friends) to his guests by incorporating its cultural aspects around lots of interesting stories.

“The first instance of a private label in India was when a reputed French winemaker created a personal label for one of the doyens of Indian hospitality,” recalls Ravindra Kumar, the very seasoned General Manager – Corporate Food & Beverages at The Lalit Hotels. “At The Lalit, we have created this exclusive private label experience for our esteemed guests where the wines are sourced directly from the producer. Not only are they as fresh as they are in the winery, but at an affordable price as well,” he adds. At this time, the wines will be available only in The Lalit New Delhi – the other properties in Bangalore, Mumbai and Kolkata will have to wait a bit more.

The best goblet forward

Charles took me around the restaurants in The Lalit New Delhi to show how the private labels list has been offered. At the signature pan-Indian restaurant “Baluchi”, a flight of three wines (50ml each) have been paired with Indian breads – ₹ 1000++. At “The Grill Room” the panoramic 28th floor restaurant, a set three course menu (see image) was being offered with a choice of a glass of wine from the two on offer – ₹ 2500++ till 31st March 2016. A quick and affordable fine dining experience without having to stress too much about making the right choice. As I sampled this menu, Charles told me that they will continuously be innovating on such offerings and present the wines in different configurations.

The wines:

(Prices indicated by bottle/by glass, taxes and service charge extra)

VDP Vaucluse Petits Grains de Folie 2014  (₹ 4200/800)
Served at: The Noble House (Asian Cuisine)

A fruity off-dry white wine with medium acidity, even though Charles told me that the residual sugar is below 9 g/l. The wine is from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, a varietal known for its aromatics and a luscious palate.

AOC Ventoux Les Sables 2014 (₹ 3500/700)
Served at: Baluchi (Indian Cuisine)

An easy drinking light-medium bodied red wine from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah varietals. Smooth tannins, red fruit notes and medium finish.

AOC Vacqueras 2012 (₹ 5000/1000)
Served at: The Grill Room (Continental Cuisine)

A blend of the classic Rhône GSM (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre). A full bodied red wine with good structure, blackberry/ cassis flavours and a lingeringly spicy finish.

AOC Beaumes de Venise 2013 (₹ 6000/ NA)
Served at: The Grill Room

A delightful vin doux naturel (wine made from grapes naturally high in sugar) from the Muscat Blanc.
An aromatic dessert wine with the right balance of sweetness and acidity – the key criteria of a sweet wine. Ripe apricots, figs and citrus notes are accompanied by a touch of spice.

The pours ahead

Does The Lalit plan to introduce more wines, maybe from different countries, in this private label collection? Both Kumar and Charles are conservative on this front, and they feel that the program has to be validated and fine-tuned by the guest response. Charles also shared with me that a retail space was being established to enable guests to take their preferred bottles home.

In the meantime, the guests at The Lalit can look forward to promotional activities like in-house wine tours and wine dinners that are planned around these private labels. The first one is already happening in New Delhi on 28th May 2016.

(This is the blog version of my article first published in vino india)

 

 

 

 

 

For a wine lover, tasting newer wines is always an exciting proposition. It gives his/her  palate a sense of novelty as well as a level of familiarity when encountering similar wines le prochain fois.

Likewise, a sense of déjà vu visited me as I tasted an array of interesting wines from the Czech Republic in New Delhi even as the Indian summer started its upsurge of notoriety. The tasting, conducted in the Czech Embassy premises, was introduced by Mr. Milan Tous, Head of Economic Section and saw attractive bottles putting the best foot forward to entice the audience into exploring them further. The ‘explorers’ didn’t disappoint either.

I had reason to feel at home since it was just the last year that the same sommelier Aleš Pokorný, had presented a bevy of Czech wines in his inimitable humoristic style that made people more curious to know about them. This year, humor duly in its place, Aleš went a step further to  cover Czech  wine regions in details, with the wines from these regions doing the tasting rounds simultaneously.

For those pressed for time, a quick snapshot of the event can be accessed through my FB post given below.  For those with an eye for details, I would  strongly recommend reading further.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/ravikjoe/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1285786324769744

One major hurdle in knowing Czech wines is the seemingly intimidating names on their labels. I attempted to simplify these names through my earlier post called 123 of Understanding Difficult Wine Labels published after the last year’s tasting. If you haven’t read it yet,  give it a look to see how simple a Rulandske Modre can become to decipher.

Coming to this year’s showcasing, a total of 10 wines and 3 spirits were presented in a guided- followed by a walk around tasting. Aleš presented the wines in tandem with highlighting the Czech wine regions and their quality system. I have tried to summarise these details in the following self explanatory and easily downloadable images.

Wines for tasting

Majority of Czech wine production is of white variety though rosés and reds are picking pace over the years. Ales highlighted that the Czech prefer to drink their wines young at higher levels of acidity rather than risking the loss of ‘balance’ due to the residual sugar becoming dominating. This aspect becomes more important on account of their quality system based on ‘must’ weight (higher ‘must’ weight implying more ripeness and hence more fermentable sugars) as also chaptalisation (a term used to denote adding sugar to ‘must’) which is allowed under the Czech wine law.

Sparkling wine Brut 2012
Producer: Chateau Winery Bzenec

A straw coloured crisp wine well suited as an aperitif.

Grüner Veltliner, Kabinet Wine 2015
Producer: Chateau Winery Bzenec

A delicate nose of white flowers and a little spice followed by a refreshing palate charecterised by high acidity and an off-dry style.

Pinot Blanc Selection of Grapes 2015  
Producer: Chateau Winery Bzenec

A refined expression of the varietal with floral and tropical fruit aromas followed by a balanced, medium finish palate.

Chardonnay Late Harvest 2014
Producer: Templar Cellars  Čejkovice

Medium gold colour with aromas of citrus and tree fruits. A refreshing medium-high acidity that could do better with a little mellowing- which would make this wine better enjoyable with its flavours fully opening up. Hence one can store this wine at least for a year before uncorking.

Tramin Late Harvest 2013
Producer: Templar Cellars  Čejkovice

One of my favourites of the day with its expressive nose and a fleshy delectable palate. A spicy finish capped the wonderful experience.

Pinot Noir Rosé, Kabinet Wine 2013
Producer: Winery Krist Milotice

Another jewel at the tasting. With its appetising deep salmon pink colour and a ‘gourmet’ nose of red berries and candy, the wine stood up with it’s palate as well- replete with a good structure, dry disposition and a lengthy finish.

Müller Thurgau, Quality Wine
Producer: Templar Cellars  Čejkovice

An entry level wine with a fruity nose, off dry palate and easy drinkability. Good for casual drinking particularly with spicy food.

Pinot Gris, Late Harvest 2011
Producer: Winery Krist Milotice

True to it’s varietal, this wine had a greyish straw colour and it had a nose of ripe peaches along with a yeasty accent. The acidity of the wine however seemed to be on the decline- which probably verified Ales’ statement about the Czech preferring to drink their wines young.

Tramin, Selection of Grapes 2011
Producer: Winery Krist Milotice

A wine with an expressive nose as expected. But for the residual sugar of 18 g/l (as informed by Ales) the acidity again seemed to be over the hill.

Blaufrankisch, Quality Wine
Producer: Templar Cellars  Čejkovice

Apart from the Pinot Noir Rosé, this was the other red grape wine for the tasting. An entry level red, this was a pleasing wine with its luminiscent ruby colour, a fruity and nutty nose and medium tannins firming up towards the finish.

Spirits for tasting (From producer R Jelínek)

The spirits came from one of the most reputed distillers of the Czech Republic who particularly specialises in fruit brandies- particularly plum brandy which is called Slivovitz in Czech language. The products offered for the tasting brought a novelty to the palate. But I will reserve my tasting notes till I confirm them with another tasting!

 

The Sweet Taste – a workshop showcasing Italian food and wine with an aim to find fresh business synergies between Italy and India was conducted under the aegis of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) on 27 Apr 16 at hotel Leela Palace, New Delhi.  The workshop, which was a day long affair saw informative talks by business leaders from both sides, coupled with food and wine workshops by experts. The audience comprised of business leaders, trade professionals and selected media.

The proceedings were opened by Francesco Pensabene, Trade Commissioner Italian Embassy in New Delhi followed by a welcome address by H.E. Lorenzo Angeloni, Ambassador of Italy to India. Different sessions interspersed with live demonstrations/workshops followed thereafter.

The overall ambit of “The Sweet Taste” being food and wine, sessions ranged from market dynamics, typical challenges and the recommended way forward to promote trade between India and Italy in these sectors collectively valued at € 33 bn of Italian exports engaging 58,000 companies.

The major food items encompassed within the workshop were  pasta, fruits and seeds, cheese, chocolate, cured meats and  olive oil. Italian wines formed the other important part, for which Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, an accomplished wine personality of Italy, also the current President of Italy’s National  Wine Committee specially arrived.

Restricting  our focus on the wine component of the fixture, let us have a look at some statistics related to Italian wines in the following image:

The workshop on wine started with  Dr. Martelli presenting several distinct advantages that the country possessed on the front of winemaking. These are:

• The benefits of ‘hillside farming’ to produce superior quality grapes facilitated by a continuous mountainous terrain running from north to south of the country. Italy is probably the only country in the world to have such unique terrain advantage.
• Access of international market to even the smallest of wine producers by means of Cooperatives so that everybody has a place under the Sun.
• Most stringent wine laws of the world with customer as the central focus.
• Only  100% grape originated product qualified to be called as ‘wine’.

A very important aspect of the Italian wine quality pyramid was highlighted by Dr. Martelli where the highest DOCG classification is accorded to wines  that show commercial aggressiveness in the Italian as well as international markets- which implies that after achieving all the quality systems in place, a particular wine has to demonstrate that it is indeed appreciated by the end consumer.

However Dr. Martelli also added that this does not mean that other wines are any lesser , as the Italian wine quality pyramid addresses different needs that are dependent on occasion, cuisine, price and similar such variables.

A guided tasting of the following eight wines was led thereafter by Dr. Martelli, assisted by  Atul Tiwari, India’s Champion Sommelier 2014. The emphasis was to highlight wine styles from different regions (wines lined up L-R in the photo below in the sequence of description):

Ti Amo Prosecco DOC
Region: Veneto

A simple, light and fruity sparkling wine with no additional complexity- as described by Atul Tiwari. According to him such wines makes the job of a Sommelier simple since they are straightforward ‘easy to enjoy’ wines.

Bepin De Eto Prosecco SuperioreDOCG  Conegliano  Valdobbiadene Brut
Region: Veneto ( Sub-region Conegliano Valdobbiadene- the best classified Prosecco region)

An elegant sparkling wine with a floral bouquet and crisp palate. In the words of Dr. Martelli,given the delicate nature of this wine, it would be best with starters when thinking of  classical Indian cuisine with gravies and rich flavours.

Piccini Pinot Grigio IGT delle Venezie IGT 2014
Region: Veneto

A medium gold coloured wine with aromas of stone fruits and flowers. Refreshing  on the palate with a distinctive gooseberry finish. Sommelier Tiwari educated the gathering that white wines constitute just 15% of Veneto’s production- the remaining being red. According to him, this is again an easy going wine that can be enjoyed well during Indian summers.

Banfi Le Rime Chardonnay Pinot Grigio  Toscana IGT 2014
Region: Tuscany

Coming from one of Tuscany’s famed producer Castello  Banfi, this wine is an interesting blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. Dr Martelli highlighted that the blending with Chardonnay affords  this wine with roundness and weightiness. Sommelier Tiwari added that owing to malolactic fermentation, the wine is smooth and buttery, hence it can be an ideal candidate with creamy and curry dishes.

Planeta La Segreta  DOC Sicilia 2014
Region: Sicily

Dr Martelli brought to the attention of the gathering that apart from the wine-tasting moving from North Eastern  to Central and now to the southernmost part of Italy, this wine was the first for the day  to incorporate indigenous Italian varietal Grecanico as major part of the blend. The wine is a blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier and 10% Fiano (another native Italian varietal).
The wine had earthy aromas and a crisp palate of green apples and pears  followed by a long finish.

Piccini Chianti DOCG 2014
Region: Tuscany

Dr Martelli described this wine as youthful, with a brilliant colour and a well balanced lingering palate. Sommelier Tiwari described Chianti wines as a versatile range- from simple and youthful to extremely complex. He also drew an interesting parallel of tannins in Chianti wines as being  similar to those found in Indian tea, hence an attractive proposition to Indian wine lovers.

Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba DOC 2013
Region: Piemonte

Undoubtedly the best Red of the day, personally speaking as well as going by the audience reaction. Dr Martelli said that quite like Sicily and Puglia, Piemonte is also a red wine predominant region. Sub region Langhe, where this wine is produced, is also a protected UNESCO heritage site.
The wine had a light red ruby colour and a complex nose of blackberries, chocolate and other emerging layers which can well qualify it as delicious on the aromas front itself! The palate met the expectations with a dense character, berry compote and spice followed by a lingering finish.

Umani Ronchi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2014
Region: Abruzzo

Made from another indigenous grape varietal that is cultivated mostly along the Adriatic coast, this was a ‘fresh’ red wine with a rounded yet powerful character. A well balanced acidity made it one of those reds that you can enjoy without food as well.

Towards the evening, the Ambassador, H.E. Lorenzo Angeloni hosted a warm reception at his residence where wine and Italian food was savoured by the guests amid lots of Indian-Italian bonhomie. The Ambassador informed that promotions like these will continue with an aim to achieve a win-win situation between the two countries where quality Italian produce will have access to the vastly promising Indian market.

Wine lovers in India will sincerely hope this vision to come true!

Innovation and enthusiasm go hand in hand. It is only the enthused who innovate. Conversely, innovation  generates further enthusiasm.

Over the past one month I attended a series of innovative wine sessions called ‘unwined’ which look at breaking the stereotypes often associated with wine tastings. The sessions were hosted by Madhulika Bhattacharya a.k.a. Madame La Cave, the prolific owner of La Cave – the best wine store of current times  in New Delhi. Just a day back I attended an ‘unwined’ dinner with wines from Castello Banfi – the famed producer from Tuscany. (If you would like to know more about La Cave, click here to read my article on the store, published in vino india)

As the name suggests, ‘Unwined by La Cave’ are wine tastings/dinners that urge wine lovers to approach the tastings in a care-free manner with the sole focus of unwinding around wine. Hence there is no dress code, expectations of  technical jargon or anybody treated more equal than others.

But the most appealing aspect of these sessions is Madhulika’s endeavour to time them with the visits of respective winery representatives, resulting in first hand interaction between producers and end consumers. For the Banfi dinner, Guillaume Blanchard, Regional Manager Banfi, South East Asia did the honours.

Coming back to the innovation theme, while I was sharing a pictorial of the Banfi dinner on my official Facebook page ‘Colonel Joe’ , I realised that we keep duplicating content on the World Wide Web on different platforms to reach different sets of audience. What if the same content could be reused across platforms with a little context tailoring relevant to each? It would  result not only  in a faster dissemination of information but also spare the planet some unnecessary carbon emissions arising from data duplication and computing resources. The idea of “Quick Posts” on Guns 2 Gewurztraminer was born.

In this inaugural quick post, I am sharing below, the aforesaid  FB pictorial of the Banfi dinner. Hope it will convey the essence of the event . For later quick posts, I visualise having feed from multiple channels in a single blog post.

Click on any photo start viewing the album.

https://www.facebook.com/ravikjoe/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1266231036725273

Enjoy and do share your feedback in the comments space below.

Cheers, Santé and Salud!

Some wine tastings are more equal than others and a tasting of Bordeaux Grands Crus wines definitely falls under this category. Aficionados will know that the 1855 classification of top French wines initiated by King Napoleon III is still the synonym for the best wines of the world, though much water has flown down the Gironde ever since the classification was made.

The classification, restricted to the Médoc and Graves region of Bordeaux has a total of  62 estates across 5 subclassifications stretching across Premier (first) to Cinquième (fifth) growths . These are the wines that are long lived, full of character and quite understandably produced under the most stringent of Appellation regulations .

This March, I had the good fortune of attending a vertical tasting cum dinner of one such prestigious estate which is also identified with  its old Indian connection . This connection manifests in the form of  India pagodas and an elephant logo that make the estate property quite distinctive. Yes, I am talking of Chateau Cos d’Estournel  the famed St Estephe  deuxième (second)  growth.

The tasting was organised under the aegis of FICOFI, a niche fine wines and services organization headquartered at Paris. Aymeric de Gironde, the General Manager Cos d’Estournel and Cecily Burchett-Chambers, Business Development Director FICOFI arrived specially in New Delhi to guide this vertical tasting meant for business leaders and high end wine consumers . I found my place courtesy an old friend who happens to be a member of Le Club FICOFI- an exclusive 200 member club of high net worth wine passionates.

About Cos d’Estournel

With history dating back to the 18th century, Cos d’Estournel (pronounced kozh destoornel) derives its name from the Gascon word caux, which is an abbreviation of the phrase colline de cailloux meaning  a “hill of pebbles”.  The typical terroir of this estate offers good drainage during the rainy season and its proximity to the stream  “La Jalle du Breuil”  moderates the climate. Hence, even in lesser than average years, their wines turn our appreciably well. Their Indian connection began when one of  its early owners Louis Gaspard d’Estournel started shipping wine in barrels to India and back after discovering that this journey made the wines taste  better probably due to accelerated ageing. He signed such bottles  with an inscription expédié par moi (dispatched by me), and this earned him the sobriquet of the “Maharajah of St Estephe”.

The Tasting

Even as the evening commenced with rounds of Champagne while the guests assembled, I took time to converse with Aymeric as well as Cecily getting valuable insights into the tasting. We moved to the table and the proceedings started with Aymeric introducing the estate amidst many light moments. His take on fine wines that “they should be enjoyed and not just collected” met with a huge applause that set the tone for the proceedings that lay ahead.

It was a cosy setup in hotel Trident Gurgaon with just around 20 guests seated around a long table with imposing candelabras lighting up the environs alluringly. Live Indian music  added to the ambience and worked well to highlight the marriage of authentic  Indian food with the bottled pleasures . The pairings are shown in an image further below and here is  how it went:

 

Cos Blanc 2013

Cos started producing white wines only in 2005 and their 2013 vintage is considered by far the best. Notable wine critic James Suckling reaffirmed this perception in 2014  saying- “ this is the best Cos Blanc ever!

Tasting notes:  Pristine clear and light straw in colour. A complex floral bouquet with hints of stone fruits, notably peaches. A high acidity and a flavourful palate powered the wine to go better with food than on its own. It was hand in glove with the Tandoori Jhinga (clay oven cooked prawns) and Murg Methi Malai (cream and fenugreek marinated char grilled chicken chunks ).

Cos d’Estournel 2000 (Served from a magnum)

This vintage is no longer available in the open market hence we were fortunate to sample it. Coming from a magnum (1.5 litres) the bottle  opened up like an extrovert within no time!

Tasting notes: Medium ruby with a fading rim, the wine exuded aromas of ripe red cherries and spice. Medium bodied and juicy on the palate, it first appeared subdued by the spiciness of Galouti Kebab ( Parboiled mutton patty cooked on griddle), but a larger gulp of the wine did the trick rather well!

Cos d’Estournel 1996

Aymeric informed that 1996 started as a cold year in Bordeaux but went on to being warm in the later stages. It was considered perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon and the 65% Cab Sauv content of this wine seems to have benefited this wine well (the remaining 35% being Merlot).

Tasting notes: Clear, deep ruby with a luxuriant nose of dark berries, tobacco and spice. After some time in the glass, notes of iodine were also detected. The palate was well structured with rounded tannins turning grippy towards the finish. The robustness of Murg Begum Pasand (succulent chicken chunks in rich viscous gravy) had a desirable candidate in this powerful wine.

Cos d’Estournel 2003

As opposed to 1996, 2003 was a hot and dry year in Bordeaux. Vines were stressed for water but the later part of the season welcomed rainfall that was much needed for a good quality fruit. These fluctuations brought an intrigue to the vintage that resulted in some very special wines specially from Northern Médoc and  particularly St Estephe.

Tasting notes: Deep ruby colour and aromas of white flowers, blackberry and spice. Full bodied with velvety tannins and a super long finish. The Tandoori Raan (clay oven slow cooked whole leg of lamb) was in an ideal company with this wine.

Cos d’Estournel  1989

Famous wine critic Robert Parker said in 1997 that this wine was drinkable for the next 15+ years, so I guess we made it home well on time. 1989 is also considered a good vintage where Merlot dominated the quality charts,  attaining full ripeness as compared to Cabernet Sauvignon dictated by an earlier than usual harvest.

Tasting notes: Medium ruby in colour with floral as well as vegetal aromas – notably so, mushrooms and caped gooseberry. The wine expressed a medium body with well rounded tannins more powerful towards the finish. With the mildly spiced rich Kaju Biryani (fragrant rice with cashews slow cooked in a sealed clay pot), the wine’s refined expression had a good match.

Our experience concluded with an exotic dessert served inside a ‘jewel box’ inundated with a dense fog of dry ice. The service at the venue was impeccable, enabled by right wine temperatures, sufficient decanting where required  and abundance of pours. Sommelier Rakesh Awaghade did a wonderful job befitting the stature of the event.

Of course a Grand Cru tasting would demand nothing less!

(Factual References : www.estournel.com, Fine Wine and Champagne India and www.thewinecellarinsider.com)

Towards the end of 2015, there was a new wave of imported wines that splashed the Indian shores. Fratelli Wines- an Indian domestic producer, literally went the whole hog by augmenting their erstwhile portfolio of imported wines from 6 to 22 in an apparent bid to lay a greater claim on the Indian wine market. The only other domestic Indian producer in the imported wines space is India’s largest  producer Sula with 30 imported wines augmenting it’s bestseller domestic labels.

I had the privilege to be at the showcasing of these wines at Hyatt Regency New Delhi. Here’s a lowdown on these wines that you are likely to encounter in the Indian winescape.

(Retail prices indicated are ex New Delhi)

Zardetto (Italy)

Zardetto is located in the Conegliano hills in the heart of Prosecco vineyards. Fabio Zardetto (Owner) was present to show two of his wines:

Prosecco Cuvée Brut (₹ 1730): A crisp dry and a straightforward sparkler well suited for casual drinking. Fabio told me that this label is quite popular for use in cocktails as well.

Prosecco Extra Dry (₹ 2660): A tad sweeter than the above, this one was rounder on the palate with a fruity/ floral character. A suitable aperitif as well as with food.

Boisset – La Famille des Grands Vins (France)

Proudly calling itself a “family of families” with wines from Burgundy, Jura, Beaujolais, Rhone, Sud de France and California, this family owned business puts across their credo metaphorically – “oceans separate us, great wines unite us”. Olivier Medigue (Export Manager) was present to explain the wines with fluid ease:

Maison Bonpas Côtes du Rhone Villages (₹ 2600): A full bodied wine with black fruits/ spice aromas and flavours. Appeared quite suitable for the average Indian preferences with its silky tannins.

Fortant de France Chardonnay (₹ 2340): Dry and light bodied on the palate with subtle tropical fruits flavours.

Fortant de France Grenache Rosé (₹ 1800): Refreshing, dry with red berries flavours and a long finish.

Fortant de France Grenache (₹ 1800): Intensely fruity wine with a luscious well rounded palate and pleasant tannins.

Fortant de France Cabernet Sauvignon (₹ 2340): Deep ruby wine with a full body, round tannins accompanied by ripe blackberries and cassis flavours.

Maison J Moreau & Fils (France)

Considered a specialist in Chablis wines.

J Moreau & Fils Chablis AOC (₹ 6030): A refined expression of Chardonnay with well balanced fruit-acidity and a minerally complexity.

Jean-Pierre Moueix (France)

A négociant (trader) from Bordeaux.

Château Bernadotte AOC Haut-Médoc 2008 (₹ 8175): A wine with half-half blend of Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, which is quite uncommon for a left bank (of Gironde estuary) wine. The wine has delightful aromas of dark fruits, fruit cake and chocolate. A good choice for Christmas.

Château Chantalouette AOC Pomerol 2008 (₹ 10545): A full bodied wine with a firm stucture and flavours of ripe red fruits. Long on the finish.

Château Laujac AOC Médoc 2012 (₹ 6635): A surprisingly friendly wine with a savoury palate that makes it a very good gourmet wine.

Châteaux Vieux Lartigue Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2008 (₹ 7490): A wine with rounded fruit flavours and silky tannins. Fruity and sweet spice aromas make it an indulgence! Likely to be an excellent companion with rich Indian preparations – I’m thinking Butter Chicken (tandoor roasted chicken in creamy gravy) and Dal Makhani (slow cooked lentils with a smoky flavour).

Viña Edmara (Chile)

A producer that has a presence in the Central Valley as well as coastal area of Chile. The wines in the Fratelli portfolio come from the Central Valley.

Viña Edmara Chardonnay (₹ 2450): A typical warm weather Chardonnay replete with tropical fruit flavours and rounded mouthfeel.

Viña Edmara Pinot Noir (₹ 2550): A juicy delight on the palate this wine had ripe red berries and vegetal aromas.

Il Casone (Italy)

The winery is situated in a small town called Trebaseleghe, at the junction of three Venetian cities Treviso, Padua and Venice.

Il Casone Pinot Grigio (₹ 2310): A refreshing wine with citrus and dried flower aromas. Delicate on the palate with subtle flavours of tree fruits. A good wine wine on its own or light food.

Caliterra (Chile)

Established in 1996 as a joint venture between the Robert Mondavi family and Viña Errazuriz from Colchagua, Chile. “Caliterra” is amalgamated from “Calidad” (quality) and “Tierra” (land). The name hence signifies the respective strengths of the partners.

Caliterra Chardonnay (₹ 2340): Straw coloured wine with an expressive nose of citrus, dry fruits, and a hint of spice. Delicious on the palate with a good balance of acidity and ripe fruit.

Caliterra Merlot (₹ 2340): An intensely fruity wine with ripe aromatics and flavours of red berries and rounded tannins that make it an easy drinking wine.

Casa Sola (Italy)

The vineyards of Casa Sola are located in the centre of Chianti Classico area in Tuscany. The region prides itself on its rich biodiversity that comprises of forests and olive groves interspersed with vineyards.

Casa Sola Chianti Classico (₹ 3600): A medium ruby wine with blackberries and spice aromas. Medium bodied on the palate with rounded tannins and a hint of oak.

The augmented import portfolio launched by Fratelli signifies an increasing trend among major domestic winemakers in India to expand market reach amongst a wider crossection of wine consumers.

I also had the opportunity to converse with Kapil Sekhri, Managing Director Fratelli Wines who said that the whole idea behind adding imported wine labels to their portfolio was to offer a complete range of wines to the consumers. It is a welcome thought that more domestic wine producers could do well to emulate in the interest of  well rounded portfolios.

Something that the increasing number of Indian wine lovers would welcome with open arms.