Grover Zampa Vineyards

India’s pioneering winemaker Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV) has literally pushed the pedal to the floor. The country’s second biggest and the most awarded winemaker has been scaling things up like never before. Those who have followed the company for the past one year plus, would recollect the winemaker’s  headline-worthy acquisition of Chateau d’Etroyes last year in Burgundy, France. But that’s not all. Back home, GZV has consolidated the Indian winemaking space by acquiring Myra, Four Seasons and Charosa vineyards- all of them in a space of their own.

At the centre of this spate of acquisitions is the top management overhaul at GZV with investment banker Ravi Viswanathan, a French citizen of Indian origin- also the largest stakeholder of the company- assuming the reins as its new Chairman. It is worthwhile to mention that last year, GZV had also elevated their erstwhile COO Vivek Chandramohan as the new CEO as the previous incumbent moved on . All these changes have translated into a great deal of freshness in the company and the effect has already started showing.

A Revamped Winery and Visitor Centre

GZV recently invited media and enthusiasts to visit their revamped winery at Nandi Hills near Bangalore. The occasion also saw the launch of two new wines from their stable- one a Sparkling “Prestige Cuvée” under their acclaimed La Réserve label and the other an eponymous Vendanges Tardives- the first dessert wine in their portfolio. I was one of the privileged few to be invited to this day long engagement that entailed tastings, interactions and the launch gala itself.

On an early May morning, I with my fellow wine media flew off to Bangalore and travelled by road to their picturesque winery marked by lush greenery, waterbodies and a  newly refurbished complex that houses a state-of-the-art tasting lounge.  At a time when most of India is braving high temperatures, it was a welcome change to be at the place and this pleasantness set the tone for the proceedings of the day that lay ahead.

Globetrotting Payoffs

First on agenda during our visit was a tour of the winery, but before that I stole some moments to have a quick chat with Chandramohan to understand their activities that have been shaping the state of affairs at GZV. Ever since he took over as the CEO, Chandramohan has been relentlessly travelling across the globe in his quest to find the best practices, equipment and grape varietals to realise the full potential of the Indian terroir. Thus came about Qvevris from Georgia, Vertical Hydraulic Presses, Optical Grape Sorters and Ceramic Egg Shaped Fermentation Vessels that obviate the need for remontage (pumping wine to the top). We could see all of these first hand during our tour of the winery.

It was impressive to see a great deal of research being undertaken at  GZV that aims at yielding  wines unheard in the Indian scenario till now. GZV’s acclaimed Viticulturist Manjunath VG and his deputy Akshay Baboo (who has joined them recently) have been working steadfastedly with esoteric varietals like Saperavi and several others that remain classified as not to be disclosed for now.

According to Manjunath, these trials will take a couple of years before arriving at a concrete decision to make wines with them sustainably. Consumers can hence expect to find a diverse range of new GZV wines being launched in the near future. During our winery tour, we tasted barrel as well as Qvevri samples of wines that gave us an idea of the things to follow.

Going a step further and to cater to the millennial generation, GZV will also soon be launching a wine based RTD beverage  initially to be introduced in Southern India, followed by the North later.

The Two New Wines

La Réserve Brut Royale (INR 2000 for 750 ml) and Vendanges Tardives ((INR 1750 for 375 ml) are the two new wines that can be safely called the harbingers of other exciting launches anticipated in the GZV stable in the coming times. Building up on the brand value of their La Réserve label, La Réserve Brut Royale is a 100% Chenin Blanc Sparkler partly fermented in barrels and aged for more than 30 months. Chenin Blanc as a varietal is widely recognized for its suitability to India and GZV have thus far been making a 100% Chenin Blanc under their Zampa Soirée label. La Réserve Brut Royal adds further to their repertoire by having a Prestige Cuvée of sorts in the sparkling genre.

Vendanges Tardives (meaning Late Harvest in French) is a 100% Viognier based dessert wine that has finally bridged the gap in that genre in the GZV portfolio. The wine comes in a packaging of 375 ml and its cylindrical bottle is reminiscent of a Canadian ice wine. This wine also marks GZV’s willingness to go “out of the box” as a  Viognier based dessert wine is hard to come across. At the time of the tasting, both the new wines were available at their cellar door,  to be introduced in the market shortly thereafter.

Befor Viswanathan formally launched the new wines towards the evening, a tasting masterclass by India’s first and only Master of Wine Sonal Holland provided a detailed glimpse of both wines in full throttle. The occasion also saw the new vintage of Insignia– their Prestige Cuvée Red wine that was earlier available in Magnum and Double Magnum sizes being served from the now available Standard bottle as well.

Tourism on the Horizon

Chandramohan disclosed that the next big diversification of GZV is going to be in the hospitality space with an eye on the growing wine tourism in India. In their 36 acres facility at Nashik, they are working on a restaurant having both indoors and al fresco settings. There will also be a barbeque speciality restaurant at the mezzanine level and  a cliffhanger bar that will offer breathtaking views all around. The biggest attraction however will be 60 super premium all-glass chalets that have been designed by Bangalore based architects. The chalets will offer a 180-degree views of the beauteous Sahyadri Hills complete with its lakes and valleys. The facility is likely to be operational in September this year and by November GZV plans to invite selected guests to preview it.

Vijay Amritraj is a name that evokes collective Indian pride. It is for good reason too. The tennis ace who famously beat biggies of his era like Bjorn Borg, Rod Laver, Jimmy Connors, John McEnroe and Ivan Lendl, is credited with catapulting India to the international tennis league. Sports fans would recall that during the nineteen-seventies, the ABC of world tennis implied the trinity of Amritraj, Borg and Connors.

Being a pathbreaker, it is no surprise then, that the tennis icon is extremely confident about another bold venture of his.

Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection (VA Collection), his eponymous wine range is virtually on a roll if you consider its success ever since its launch in 2014. At a dinner to mark the fourth anniversary of the launch of VA Collection at The Oberoi Gurugram, Amritraj expressed his optimism by saying:

If India can excel in tennis, why not in wine!

Launched in London during the Wimbledon tournament of 2014, VA Collection wines are produced by India’s reputed winemaker Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV). VA Collection wines have already won as many as 22 awards, the most recent being the Gold medal for the VA Collection Red at the Asian Wine Review 2018 Hong Kong. Apart from India, these wines are currently available across USA, UK, Australia, France, Japan, Nepal, Maldives, and Singapore.

Taking the gathering humorously down the memory lane, Amritraj recalled how Kapil Grover (Chairman GZV) once pulled his leg by mentioning “it took you 20 years to win 16 tournaments, but just 4 years for the VA Collection to win 22 awards. He sportingly acknowledged the fact, quipping-  “there’s nothing like losing to yourself”.

Special Celebrations

The commemorative 4th-anniversary dinner for VA Collection was a great occasion for wine lovers to interact with the icon and get privy to many golden anecdotes related to his illustrious career. Apart from tennis, Amritraj’s achievements as a Hollywood Actor, a Sports Commentator and a UN Ambassador are no secret to his followers.

On the wine note, Vijay recalled his association with the Grover family of more than three decades. It was only a few years back that Kapil Grover, noticing him to be a wine drinker rather than whisky/spirits, came up with the idea of creating a label dedicated to the tennis star. Amritraj concurred, albeit with one condition. The wines had to be premium and with a global appeal. Thus the VA Collection was born and has ever since been one of GZV’s best offerings.

Similar to tennis, where we are witnessing older players making successful comebacks while the younger ones are looking determined to excel, a wine too has to constantly strive to maintain the highest quality in order to retain its appeal to the end consumer. 

                                                                                                                                                                           – Vijay Amritraj

Two Variants

VA Collection wines come in two variants- a red and a white. The red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Viognier, with the last varietal added to increase fruitiness of the wine.

 

The white variant is a barrel-fermented Viognier to make it toasty and creamy apart from its characteristic aromatic profile. For more details on the wines, read my earlier blog post here.

 

I got in touch with Karishma Grover, Associate Winemaker at GZV and the third generation of Grover family to know as to how the VA Collection wines have evolved over the years.  Karishma said:

Stylistically there has been no change in the way we make Vijay Amritraj wines ever since their inception. We have found that the wines have a real ageing potential. Our conscious effort has been to maintain their signature style even as we continuously refine our production processes.

Versatile Pairings with Vijay Amritraj Collection

Some delightful pairings marked the dinner which in itself was an informal affair. The chefs at The Oberoi did a befitting job to the stature of the event- something which was acknowledged by Amritraj himself.

The hors d’œuvres included Salmon and Cream Cheese Mille Feuille, Beetroot Patties with Tempered Feta Cheese, Caramelized Onion and Brie Tartlets and more.

The buffet dinner spread encouraged people to try their own pairings with interesting adaptations of Indian food to petits plats. I particularly liked the mini dosas with a variety of filling options incorporating crab meat, mutton and poultry.

But the ultimate delight was to grab a tennis ball from the show props at the venue (with kind permission of the hosts) and getting it autographed by the man that India loves so much.

India is a budding wine consuming nation and has been experiencing its wow moments every now and then. The latest in the series is the Indian Wine Day (IWD),  recently celebrated for the first time on sixteenth November 2017  in multiple cities of India and in London. The event is being seen as an important step towards promoting domestic wines in the country, gelling well with the “Make in India” orientation of the government of the day.

The initiative, a brain-child of Subhash Arora, President of the Indian Wine Academy  and Founder Delhi Wine Club, was put together in association with Charles Donnadieu Corporate Sommelier  The Lalit Hotels and Resorts, who were also the hospitality partners for the venture.

According to the organizers, IWD has been conceived to promote Indian wines with Indian cuisine for  an exclusive Indian gastronomical experience. To that end, the inaugural event embossed the compatibility aspects of Indian wine and cuisine, going by the thumb rule that wine and cuisine from the same land have favourable affinity.

Multiple Cities- One Event

IWD 2017 was conducted simultaneously in Delhi, Bangalore, Mumbai, Jaipur, Chandigarh, and London properties of The Lalit,  featuring a uniform menu from the hotel chain’s Baluchi Restaurants that was paired with    award winning wines  from India’s prominent  producers. viz. Sula, Grover, Fratelli, York, Charosa, Chandon and KRSMA.

I found my place of privilege at the Delhi fixture which offered a great value proposition in terms of the elaborate spread and unlimited flow of wines for a ticket price of Rs. 2500.00. The concept though was much more than food and wine, as the whole ambience was carefully curated to portray an Indian essence, including live Indian music, smartly liveried staff in Indian attire and so on.

Interestingly, 16 Nov 17 also happened to be the third Thursday of the month, which is also the famed Beaujolais Nouveau day (hence the French element in the title of this post).  According to Arora, they purposefully chose the particular day, to bring home the importance of  IWD by coinciding with a globally popular wine day. From the next year however, Arora plans to choose a more convenient day (preferably not a weekday)  based on feedback from producers and wine lovers.

Fab Pairings at the Lalit Delhi Event

Guests at The Lalit Delhi proceeded straight to the hotel’s Al Fresco restaurant where the evening was set in motion by pouring out a sparkling wine tower followed by a toast raised to the occasion. Arora introduced the event, elaborating how the initial idea of celebrating the fifteenth anniversary of the Delhi Wine Club that he founded in 2002, graduated into the becoming of  Indian Wine Day.   A sit down dinner followed, with each course being introduced by Arora and Donnadieu.  Here are some of the courses that I enjoyed in particular (overall menu towards the end of post):

#1

Food: Guchchi aur Safed Mushroom ki Galouti (Tender kebab made from Morel and white mushrooms)

Wine: York Sparkling Cuvée Brut (100% Chenin Blanc made using Méthode Traditionelle)

The mildly spiced decadent creamy vegetarian kebabs had nutty vegetal flavours complimented well by the creamy and luscious wine on the palate.

#2

Food: Panchporan Mahi Tikka/ Afghani Murgh Kebab (Clay oven cooked fish/chicken starters) with Indian bread

Wine: Grover Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc

The satiating rich starters worked well with the bell pepper and tropical flavours of the refreshing wine.

#3

Food: Lamb Nihari/ Gilafi Kulcha (Slow cooked lamb shanks with leavened flat bread)

Wine: Fratelli Sangiovese and Charosa Reserve Tempranillo

How it Worked: Nihari and Kulcha, a sublime delicacy from northern India works best with powerful red wines. Both the wines did well with the dish but for me, the Charosa Reserve Tempranillo had a definite edge.

For the dessert course, guests were requested to proceed to Kitty Su- a happening club at The Lalit Delhi. A wide array of desserts coupled with even more wines and peppy music pumped up the fesitivities with many a vino ending up shaking a leg.

Indian Wine Day était déjà arrivé.

 

 

If you were asked to name top wine producers of India, Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV) is likely to be one of the foremost. Counted as one of the pioneering winemakers of modern day Indian wine industry, GZV represents India’s wine pride on the global stage. In a country where whisky flows in cusecs rather than the comparative trickle of wine, it is no mean feat!

There was good reason therefore, for GZV  to celebrate their 25 years of winemaking this year through two events in Delhi and Mumbai respectively. The Mumbai event (01 Nov 17) also saw the launch of  their latest offering Auriga– a Méthode Traditionelle Brut sparkling wine .

Grover Zampa Vineyards- A Recap

It was in the late 80s, that Kanwal Grover, founder of Grover Vineyards, who had been importing technology equipment from France, decided to pursue his dream of producing quality wines in India. Scouting for suitable sites for planting vines, he zeroed-in on Nandi hills, the famous-to-be  vine growing region situated north of Bangalore. The rest is history, as Grover Vineyards went on to become a leading winemaker of India.

The legacy of Kanwal Grover has since been carried forward with aplomb by his son Kapil Grover, the current Chairman of GZV. He is actively aided in this, by his winemaker daughter Karishma Grover. In 2012, the erstwhile Grover Vineyards merged with Nashik based Vallée de Vin (VDV) to form Grover Zampa Vineyards, giving them  presence in two states of India viz. Karnataka and Maharashtra. The merger untangled many regulatory kinks for the new entity. Incidentally, ‘Zampa’ name belonged to the portfolio of wines being produced by VDV prior to the merger.

Key milestones that have made GZV the brand as it stands today, include the launch of India’s first reserve wine Grover Zampa La Réserve in 1998, working with noted Bordeaux-based oenologist Michel Rolland from 1995, launch of Chêne, India’s first Tempranillo blend in 2013, the introduction of the Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection in 2014 in partnership with the legend himself and the recent launch of Insignia, their most premium single vineyard wine sold only by invitation through the cellar door.

A Global Footprint

Apart from being India’s major wine producer,  GZV  exports its wines to more than 30 countries- their top markets being France, Japan and the United Kingdom.  80% of their production is consumed domestically with rest 20% being exported to more than 30 countries. It is hence quite usual to find GZV wines on international shelves, as also prestigious restaurants, that include the three Michelin starred L’Arpège, Paris.

GZV wines have won several awards in the international wine arena, with  93 awards coming since 2013 itself. These include the Decanter Awards, DAWA Awards, Sakura Japan Women’s Wine Awards, New York International Wine and Spirits Competition and Asian Wine – The Silk Route, Beijing.

25 Years Celebrations in New Delhi

In a well curated event  at hotel  Leela Ambience, Gurugram on 24 Oct 17, wine connoisseurs sampled a pie of GZV history alongside their prized wines, all in an evening  steered by Karishma Grover, supported by her admiring father who chipped in with intricate details of their winemaking legacy . On offer was a vertical  tasting of their flagship wine La Réserve, followed by a food and wine pairing  and a gala dinner towards the end.

Vertical Tasting: La Réserve 2011, 2013, 2015

 

La Réserve 2011
An expressive nose of dark berries and spice. Luscious on the palate with medium tannins and flavors of mixed berries and sweet spice, followed by a lingering finish. It was the most liked wine of the assembly.

La Réserve 2013
A wine with a somewhat restrained nose, but conveying latent potential. Full bodied with black fruit flavors and rounded tannins, that turned grippy towards the finish.

La Réserve 2015
Given the most recent vintage, the wine was comparatively austere on the nose as well as the palate. However the tannins were rounded and that made it well drinkable. Oak was quite prominent too, likely to get subdued in a couple of years. Overall, the wine would do well in the cellar for around two years, when it is likely to bloom fully.

Wine and Food Pairing

The wine and food pairing session- again steered by Karishma- showcased pan-Indian delights from Diya restaurant paired with 5 award-winning wines from the GZV stable. The general belief that wine and food from the same land tend to pair well, was highlighted well during the tasting. Wines showcased were:

Zampa Soirée Brut
Grape: Chenin Blanc
A respectable sparkler from India made using Méthode Traditionelle. Zesty on the palate with a lingering finish.

La Réserve Blanc
Grapes: Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc
The white variant of La Réserve has a touch of Sauvignon Blanc to keep  acidity levels decent. Karishma informed that a 100% warm weather Viognier would otherwise tend to get flabby. The wine was extremely aromatic and pleasing on the palate with grassy and tropical fruit notes.

Art Collection Rosé
Grape: Shiraz
The baby pink wine had a nose of candied fruit and flowers. It was delectable on the palate with lots of fresh berries and a decent finish.

Art Collection Cabernet Shiraz
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz
This is a wine that I have been frequently consuming thanks to the ‘value for money’ it provides. The wine had an expressive nose of black berries, plum and spice followed by a full bodied palate and rounded tannins .

Vijay Amritraj (VA) Réserve Collection Red
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Viognier

VA collection red is an elegant expression of the Cabernet-Shiraz blend with a touch of Viognier to add fruitiness. A clichéd yet apt description of the wine would be “iron fist in a velvet glove”. It shows through beautifully on the nose and palate with layers of complexity.

Swirling the GZV Rosé wine

The Gala Aspect

The celebrations culminated into free flow of GZV wines with a vast range of Indian cuisine from  Diya restaurant of the hotel which has recently seen a revamp of the menu, to represent various regions of India. Preparations like Kosha Mangsho (Bengal) Litti Chokha (Bihar) and several others offered an ample playing ground to experiment with food and wine pairings.

Speaking about the 25 year celebration of the brand,  Kapil Grover, Chairman GZV said: “For most, journey is about travelling from one place to another. For us, it is about reaching a higher ground as we grow. It has been 25 years since we produced our first wine in 1992, a dream envisioned by my father. Today, we boast the most impressive pedigree in the Indian wine industry. However, this is just the beginning, for we will continue to raise the quality of our wines and  the level of consumer experience through innovation and continuous education.”

Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO, GZV added , “In an era of wine enthusiasts wanting a value choice of wines of different styles and origins, GZV has developed a global portfolio that would suit a diverse palate. Also, with the growth of global wine enterprises presenting an interesting and contemporary dimension, we represent an important connection between producers and consumers. In the last 25 years, we have raised the bar steadily for quality wines, consumer experience, international distribution and wine education thereby contributing immensely to the globalization of the Indian wine industry.”

 

Being the scion of an illustrious enterprise comes with its privileges as well as burdens. It is even more challenging when a particular domain is dictated by gender stereotypes. People who overcome such challenges are invariably well equipped to steer the next phases of their organization’s evolution. One such example is Karishma Grover, the third generation of India’s pioneering winemaker Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV).

Karishma- whose name literally means “miracle”- is India’s representation of wine generations successfully advancing their family businesses with diligence. A graduate in Viticulture & Oenology, Karishma earned her degree in wine making from University of California, Davis. She quickly followed it up with an internship with the reputed Cakebread Cellars (read my earlier interview with Bruce Cakebread here)  in the Napa Valley, California.

Back at home, Karishma continued to hone her skills, working closely with Michel Rolland, the renowned consulting oenologist hired by her company to craft their wines. All that learning from the grassroots and getting the hands dirty, paid off in the form of numerous accolades that her company has been winning on the global stage.

Karishma was in Delhi sometime back. Amid her crazily packed schedule I grabbed the opportunity to fire a volley of 10 questions at her, which she fielded and responded-to with aplomb:

Terroir or Cépage? What do you identify with more? Do you think some day a blended wine à la “old world” can be produced to represent Indian terroir?
I am quite open to both. I think the ultimate goal is an amazing wine to drink, and the best way to get that differs from region to region and winemaker to winemaker. At this point, I think Indian wine industry is too young to get compartmentalized into one or the other!

One thing you would desperately want to change about the wine business in India.
The wine industry faces many challenges to grow and flourish in India. The one thing that I would like see changed is the high selling expenses as a percentage of wine price. If that happens, we could dedicate more resources on improving quality, exploring new varietals, educating consumers etc.

Do you think easing down of trade barriers on foreign wines will be beneficial for the domestic industry due to better competition benchmarks?
Yes and no. There is a general perception in India that non-Indian wines are better, though the whole Make in India campaign is working to change that. Abundant availability of international wines, before the Indian wine industry gets a chance to establish, is risky. There are lot many cheap and low quality wines available worldwide, posing a risk for an emerging wine country like India to become a dumping ground. Hence, barriers need to be engineered so that good quality foreign wines are available at affordable prices, while keeping plonk wines away.

---

Significant awards won by GZV under Karishma’s tutelage 

• 9 awards at Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2014.
• A first time International Trophy for GZV Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2014.
• 16 Medals at  Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Competition 2014. At the competition, GZV broke all records of medals for Indian wines, creating history by bagging 15 out of the 19 medals.

---

Without any formalized standards on winemaking how do you think that the consumer can be reassured on quality/consistency aspect of Indian wines?
I think that the consumer is intelligent enough to discern the presence or absence of quality . It is in this backdrop that no serious winemaker can afford to ignore the quality/consistency aspects if long term sustainability is envisaged. Hence even in the absence of formalized wine quality regulations in India, prominent producers including us have been exercising self regulation so as to be able to compete not only in the Indian, but also the world market. The results are already showing with Indian wines increasingly winning medals and being listed in restaurants worldwide. All these factors go a long way in establishing consumer confidence.

Reds or whites-what is your inclination?
There is nothing better than a nice white or rosé wine on a hot afternoon at the poolside, beach or brunch. A big strong red on the other hand will work well with something like a perfectly cooked steak! My preference is absolutely based on what is happening around me.

Would it be good idea to include a lower priced charmat method sparkling wine in GZV’s portfolio? Also a dessert wine which is conspicuous by its absence in your offering?
Certainly. However, I am more for doing fewer things best, rather than many things average. But we can possibly consider such projects in the future.

What is your take on biodynamic winemaking? Would it be worth the effort in India?
I am a bigger champion of organic viticulture practices. Viticulture in India at the moment is in the nascent stage. We also face the unique challenges of a tropical climate and the monsoon phenomenon. We need to be working cautiously towards being sustainable, and biodynamic winemaking can certainly be a way ahead.

Which other varietals than the popular ones already present do you think can be cultivated well in India?
I am sure the warm climate varietals would do well in India, for example, Malbec and Sangiovese.

What career path do you recommend for a person from India who wants to take up viticulture/oenology?
If possible, I am a big supporter of formal education. There aren’t any really great programs in India, so getting some experience in wineries is a good way to start. Harvest being seasonal is a great opportunity to travel the world and intern at various wineries. Taste wine as much as possible, and then see what interests you most. Follow it up with formal qualifications available internationally.

Being the third generation member of GZV, what is one key value that you have imbibed from the previous generations?
There are many, but to specify one, I would say- a real love and passion for wine, combined with an attitude of working hard!

Old wine in new bottle- is the common refrain to denote cosmetic changes to an existing product. But there’s a subtle variability in its interpretation. If the concerned product is nothing to write home about, cosmetic changes appear unnecessary and maybe a desperate means to ameliorate product consumption. But what if the product is already in the hall of fame? It leads to another proverbial description- “cherry on the icing”.

The latter interpretation was on full display as one of India’s leading wine producers Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV) relaunched their flagship wine La Réserve innovatively, pairing it with a customized barbeque menu by hotel JW Marriott,New Delhi. Titled “La Réserve Barbeques” the Delhi launch was last in series of similar events in Mumbai and Bangalore.

About La Réserve

Those familiar with Indian wines would probably agree that La Réserve Red from GZV has attained cult status on the Indian wine front ever since it  was launched in 1998 . After having developed a distinctive French  inclined ‘house style’, courtesy their  active collaboration with famed wine consultant Michel Rolland and French winemaker Mathias Pellisard, GZV have been successfully able to place this wine as their “prestige cuvée”. The wine is the result of hand-picked selection of GZVs oldest Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines vinified and matured in French oak barrels.
Completing the ensemble offering, La Réserve White is a barrel fermented Viognier which according to GZV, is elaborated vintage after vintage with the same zeal as La Réserve Red.

Apart from the refined disposition of La Réserve wines , my personal opinion  finds their utmost USP as being in their consistent quality- which is a difficult ballgame in a non standardized wine industry like India. This prompted me to ask their CEO Sumedh Singh Mandla “ How are you able to ensure a consistent taste more so when you are producing these wines in two distinct geographical locations (Nandi hills in Karnataka and Nashik Valley in Maharashtra) with different terroir elements ?  Sumedh’s reply was quite plausible, as he highlighted that the cuvée blends are carefully managed to incorporate a minimum percentage of common inputs from their oldest vineyards. Though they do not maintain a stock of Réserve wines for blending, it is the quality of produce that is ensured through sound viticultural practices and oenological expertise at hand.

The New Avatar

The new packaging of La Réserve is not restricted to the label alone. A chunkier broad shouldered bottle similar to the Super Tuscans, is weightier and power inducing. While the older ‘white-gold-black’  label was minimalistic and appeared Victorian, the newer one is big, bold and flamboyantly sophisticated keeping pace with the current times. The embossed graphics in dark grey, wine red and gold/silver (for red/white wines respectively) are a pleasing combination complemented with  a pleasant tactile feel.  Another layer of differentiation is rendered by the capsules- gold for red, and silver for white – which makes the variants’ identification easy even from a distance. The price of both these wines ex Delhi retail is  ₹ 1050.00.

The Launch event

Anticipative guests comprising of trade professionals and media witnessed unveiling of the new labels by  Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO GZV and Antony Page, GM JWM, New Delhi even as they savoured the same wines. Though the organizers had envisaged an outdoor setting, the Indian monsoon dictated otherwise, resulting in the last minute shift to the crystal ballroom at JWM. The contingent venue (and the JWM team) did well to spaciously accommodate the gathering as well as the bar/ live barbeque stations.

As mentioned above, JWM Delhi has evolved a special barbeque menu for the La Réserve wines. It is common knowledge that a robust red wine invariably goes well with rustic barbeque preparations, however with a white wine included, more planning is necessitated than meets the eye.  JWM handled this aspect well by incorporating white wine centric  canapés and cheeses as pass arounds, well recognizing that most guests would  prefer to sample the white wine first. However for those not meeting this assumption, the main spread too had ample options to support their preference. The respective food stations were made interesting with witty chalkboard graffiti which fired the imagination further.

Hit Pairings at the Launch

With La Réserve Red

New Zealand lamb chop.
Pork Finochiona sausage
Moroccan lamb merguez with red wine jus
Fettucini pasta with thyme infused mushroom ragout

With La Réserve White

Norwegian smoked salmon, Sevruga Caviar, Dill sour cream blinis
Prawns with spicy garlic lemon marinade
Fromage de chevre with crisps
Salad- poached chicken, French beans and prunes with honey mustard vinaigrette

 

Over the years Indians have been looking for new gifting ideas beyond the traditional sweets and dry fruits. With the overall awareness on wine going up, it is also turning out to be one of the favourite gifting ideas spelling class and sophistication. But choosing the right wine for  gifting can become a tedious issue if one is unsure about the preferences of the intended recipient. The dilemma is accentuated by a multitude of labels available on retail shelves. Then how should one go about picking the right wine?

Having received many such queries over the past years, particularly during festive occasions, I thought of coming up with a list of wines based on my personal experience. Since the  list could become humungous, I decided to stick to Indian wines on three accounts. Firstly, Indian wines have seen admirable evolution in the past few years, winning global awards and featuring in the wine lists of Michelin starred restaurants. Secondly, thanks to the absence of customs duties (as much as 160%), they invariably offer good value for money as compared to their imported counterparts. And lastly- the supply chain for these wines being much shorter, there is lesser chances of spoilage on account of improper handling/storage.

However, the number of ‘good’ Indian wines could be many more than just a list of 10. Hence I also narrowed down the focus based on the following considerations:

• I should have tasted each wine at least twice to find them consistently good.
• The wines should be available in at least two major metros of India- viz. Delhi and Mumbai.
• To include generic personality types of wine consumers.

So here is my festive pick for 2015 (wines listed category wise and not in any order of precedence):

Indian wines have evoked a lot of interest worldwide of late. From being listed in Michelin starred restaurants to rubbing shoulders with international peers on retail shelves, the buzz on Indian wines continues to grow. And with that, wine events featuring Indian wines and cuisine are also being received with heightened interest.

Recently I hosted a wine dinner titled “Winesome India” offering a lowdown on the Indian wine industry highlighting its promising prospects on the international scene. We presented six wines from one of India’s prominent wine producers Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV). Coupled with a four course spread from one of Delhi’s  rapidly emerging wine friendly Indian restaurant Gulati Spice Market (GSM), we had wine lovers enthused on Indian wine and food pairing- which is considered challenging by many folks.

 

The event though was not just about eating, drinking and making merry. It was an endeavour to present Indian wines and cuisine in the right earnest- to be served at right temperature, sequence and food affinity. And while doing so, to highlight that Indian wines hold good promise, considering their relative nascence. Given that Indian wines are increasingly being awarded at global competitions, we also wanted to dispel a common perception that they are sub-par as compared to international wines.

The evening started with rounds of Zampa Sparkling Brut, paired with a wide range of finger food, followed by the starter, main and dessert courses coupled with two wines each (see menu below). Though an Indian dinner is classically not course oriented, we managed to unobtrusively spread it so, bringing out each pairing deservedly in full glory!

The range of wines represented the diversity of GZV portfolio courtesy their large heartedness in offering their entire portfolio to pick and choose from. . Rohit Arora,Trade Marketing Manager GZV worked closely with me on selecting the wines to adequately represent the two major wine regions of India  viz. Nasik Valley and the Nandi Hills where they grow their grapes. Two of their wines that we used have also recently been included in  the wine list of L’Arpège- a 3 star Michelin Restaurant in Paris, rated amongst 25 best restaurants of the world.

Popular wines of the evening

While all wines basked in their dedicated moments of glory, there were some that were runaway hits. These were:

Art Collection Rosé
Grape: Shiraz

A fresh and fruity wine with a pleasing salmon pink colour. It paired well with the starter course of light and airy Makai Seekh (skewered kababs made with beaten minced corn) and decadent Galaouti Kabab (parboiled and pan cooked minced lamb patties) served on mini Sheermal (sweet fermented bread).

VA Collection Red
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon + Shiraz + Viognier

Launched by GZV last autumn, this wine has been generating a lot of interest having already garnered a couple of international awards. An extrovert  red, with flavours and aromas of black fruits and wild flowers, the wine has firm rounded tannins making it a good pairing with succulent Indian preparations.

La Réserve Red
Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon + Shiraz

By far the most respected of GZV wines, it is more restrained than the VA Red but packs immense power, making it an alpha wine. Black fruits, chocolate and vanilla personify this wine as a bold red that can be at ease with the most robust of Indian foods .

Both, VA Collection Red and La Réserve above, came of their own with the main course of Burrah Kabab (marinated lamb chops slow cooked in a clay oven), Paneer Takatak (griddle cooked cottage cheese cubes with Indian spices) , a variety of Dals (gravied lentils), assorted Indian breads and steamed vegetable rice.

Zampa Soirée Brut Rosé
Grape: Shiraz

A creamy and delightful Rosé sparkling, this is a versatile wine that can either be enjoyed as an aperitif or with food, including dessert courses. The wine has aromas of red berries accentuated by yeasty notes and a lush palate that makes it gourmet inclined.

This sprightly Rosé harmoniously counterbalanced the creamy Gulkand Firni (Milk and rice reduction with candied rose petals) as also the more robust Moong Dal Cigar with Rabri dip (Cooked lentils in sugar syrup stuffed in filo pastry  and served with thickened milk dip). Pairing a dry sparkling wine with dessert has been successfully tried internationally and it worked well with the Indian desserts too.

The audience for Winesome India comprised of distinguished people from different vocations who share common love for wine and cuisine. Defence officers, corporate honchos, food and beverages professionals and business owners- all were there to raise the toast to the winsome proposition in Winesome India.

….and Winesome India is also the toast of leading Beverages publications in India!

Spiritz Magazine Oct 2015 issue

vino india, Oct 2015 issue

 

A wine  rendezvous  quite obviously entails tasting of wines and food to go along. It is only theorientation of such events that sets them apart on the basis of aspects like-  the venue, exclusivity of wines and food and the profile of guests in attendance. Recently, the launch of Vijay Amritraj  (VA) Reserve collection  by Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV) in New Delhi   witnessed these elements, befitting  the stature of the event that  saw Mr Vijay Amritraj himself fly in from Los Angeles to mingle with wine lovers of Delhi.   The venue was the expansive 2nd floor terrace of Hotel Leela Palace at Chanakyapuri where the who’s who of Delhi’s wine fraternity descended to enjoy the wines amidst an evening full of festive revelry (Diwali, the festival of lights being just a day away)- and some classy hors d’œuvres.

Having been launched earlier at London, Mumbai and Bangalore, the VA collection is the first ever attempt by an Indian producer to model wine around a celebrated personality. This bold step could probably not be taken by anyone else than one of the  oldest and the most respected wine brands of  India. Mr Kapil Grover, Chairman GZV informed the gathering that the wines had been developed in close coordination with the tennis ace over a span of two years, and as such, incorporate many aspects of his versatile personality of being a Hollywood actor and producer, UN messenger of peace and a wine connoisseur . Two variants  – a red and a white, form this premium collection,   which  retail at Rs 1200.00 and £ 14.99 a bottle in India and the UK respectively.

The evening started with rounds of GZV’s sparkling wine Zampa Soirée Brut as the guests engaged in animated conversations with the top brass of the company present on the occasion. Shortly after the tennis legend arrived, the collection was launched with short and humorous talks by him and Mr Grover. The wines were then uncorked and flowed freely for the guests to sample. Around the wines I had the opportunity to have passionate discussions with both Mr  Amritraj and Mr Grover that enabled me draw my own inferences on the legend’s specific personality traits  mapped to the respective wines.   I am listing these below:

The Wines

VA Collection Red:
Grapes:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Viognier
Alcohol: 14%

Wine lovers would know that Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are two robust grape varieties with good level of tannins that are often used to provide backbone to a blend. Only a warm weather region could pull off the coup of having these two varietals to facilitate a blend that has sufficient ripeness while retaining an excellent structure. As I spoke to Mr Kapil Grover, inquiring about the premise of adding Viognier, he highlighted the reason being the desired upping of the fruitiness quotient- a common practice in the renowned  blends coming from the famous Rhône valley in France.

Tasting Notes: Deep ruby red colour with a very expressive nose of red fruits, spice and discernible oak. Well structured with rounded tannins, a taste of red fruits and a long finish. Those who do not prefer prominently oaked wines may do well to reserve the bottle for an year or so, to enable the wood tannins to mature further. Ideal for pairing with rustic meat or well textured vegetarian dishes.

How it matches to VA’s personality: The potent volleys of the tennis ace are represented well by the wine’s bold demeanour. The aromatics (fruits, flowers,spice) imparted by Viognier bring out his colourful charm as a Hollywood artist- not to forget the wine’s complexity rendered by ageing in French oak barrels that signify  his many skills.

VA Collection White:
Grape:  Viognier
Alcohol: 13.5%

The main challenge in a Viognier based wine is in getting the right acidity level, as the wine starts getting flabby with increasing ripeness. So what was boon for the red in our context could well have been a bane for this one. But  I would say that VA Collection White has been managed very deftly going by its sprightly acidity that complements its fruity and floral notes rather well. The wine has been barrel-fermented which makes it toasty and creamier along with an extra chutzpah imparted by barrel maturation.

Tasting Notes: Straw coloured wine having aromas of white flowers and stone fruits. On the palate it is fruity with pleasing acidity and mild spiciness. A versatile wine that could be enjoyed as an aperitif or with food.

How it matches to VA’s personality: The noble grape varietal that has been adapted extremely well to the Indian conditions signifies Vijay’s momentous achievement of putting India on the world tennis map wherein he stood at No. 16 in the world rankings, beating well known worthy competitors such as Jimmy Connors and John McEnroe. This Viognier may well establish India as being highly competent in producing a single varietal wine that defies traditional perceptions about terroir influences.

During my interaction with  Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO Grover Zampa Vineyards, he brought out that apart from India, the key markets envisaged for these premium wines are UK, USA Europe and South East Asia, where the initial response to the wines has been very encouraging.

With GZV wines winning 05 medals at the recently concluded Decanter Asia Wine Awards (DAWA) 2013, the VA Reserve collection has lots to cheer about. Developing wines around a famous personality may also work well in the interest of the consumer, as the producer will be obliged to maintain the wine style over the years- a quality measure that has so far been lacking in the unregulated Indian wine scene.

In the clichéd context,  the phrase “Wine and Women” is common place and referred-to in somewhat uncharitable terms;  but when we talk of finesse, precedence matters and how! To the extent of having an exclusive wine session ruled by Women sans the material connotations and emphasizing instead on the appreciable patience and indisputable intelligence of the female species. It was the Diva’s Date with Wine.

A Unique Initiative

Diva’s date with Wine the fixture was the brainchild of Shalini Kumar, Editor Spiritz Magazine , supported by Grover Zampa vineyards, Hotel Crowne Plaza and most certainly- yours truly. The Divas attending the session were invited  from various professional profiles, from Corporate Honchos to  an Artist, a Curator, a Tarot expert, a Doctor and many more-  but what came as surprise to me was that some of them had already experienced an odd San Gimignano or  Rioja while being  clued up on a Pinotage as well!  It was a dream audience any wine passionate would give his right arm for- and I was privileged enough not required to do that!

Diva’s Date with Wine: the conduct:

As the guests started arriving, the evening warmed up to socializing with rounds of Grover Blancs de Blancs for company. The Grover stable had presented us with four wines and we arranged these in the sequence of increasing complexity as follows:

• Blanc de Blancs 2012
• Sauvignon Blanc 2012
• Cabernet Shiraz 2012
• La Réserve 2011

A light hearted introduction by Bishan Kumar, Group Editor Blue Ink Media (that owns Spiritz ) was followed by an interesting glimpse of Grover vineyards history by Malay Rout, their Marketing Head and thereafter, the baton passed on to me to lead the swirling and sipping.

In the course of tasting, I was rather impressed by the wine intelligence of the audience as they discussed the wines – drawing parallels with their international contemporaries and dissecting the characteristics of wine grape varieties .

The enthusiasm of all participants resulted in lots of passionate discussions to the extent that I was counselled by one of the beautiful ladies to restrain  the brimming zealousness. I managed to convince her of the intended spirit of the event being in  unbridled wine fun. To say in the least, it was a deeply involved sharing of thoughts that saw each one of us getting wiser on something or the other.

A quick description of the wines tasted:

Blanc de Blancs  (Delhi MRP ₹ 540.00)

A nomenclature normally used by Champagne wines, Blanc de Blancs is French for  “White of Whites” i.e. white wine from white grapes. This wine is a blend of Viognier and Clairette grapes and as per the Grover guys, they chose the particular nomenclature to simplify the label for the common wine consumer. The wine itself is simple and enjoyable without requiring you to strain for descriptors, and this is how we placed it for the evening- as an aperitif.

Sauvignon Blanc (Delhi MRP ₹ 560.00)

A more complex white of the evening with a vegetal nose combined with hints of tropical fruits. The peppery feel on the nose indicated its spiciness . The crisp and complex palate reaffirmed the nose. Went extremely well with the creamy Camembert cheese and  Lemon infused Fish.

Cabernet Shiraz (Delhi MRP ₹ 560.00)

I have had this wine umpteen times earlier and consider it a good value for money option. With rounded tannins,black fruit flavours and a distinct smoky feel, this wine was liked a lot. As the name suggests, the wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz- both considered powerful grape varieties.  It was accompanied exceedingly well by Chicken Malai Tikka amongst other finger food.

La Réserve (Delhi MRP ₹ 690.00)

Again, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz grapes, this wine imbibes extra complexity  by virtue of ageing for nine months in French oak barrels- that lends it  extra complexity .  It is a delightfully mouth filling wine with a nose of black fruits and spice complemented by a powerful palate of complex flavours of black currants, chocolate, spice, vanilla and oak. The wine is considered as the prestige cuvée of Grover vineyards and it lives up to the pedigree.  In my opinion, it is easily the best Indian Red available as on date. Also, at the price available, it is a steal as compared to equitable  imported wines . It paired famously with the Shammi Kebab and stir fried Mushrooms.

Even as we started winding up the evening, the Grover guys offered a tasting surprise in the form of their brand Chêne (meaning Oak in French) that has a unique blend of Tempranillo (A Spanish grape varietal) and Shiraz. The wine is aged in French oak for fifteen months followed by fifteen months in the bottle  that lends it an impressive and mature character. However, La Réserve continued to remain the star of the evening and it only conveyed the certitude of the Divas’ minds. The wine is not available in Delhi as yet and may be introduced in 2014. Its indicative retail price  in Mumbai is ₹ 1800.00.

Finally, to top the sublime experience, two impromptu electrifying singing performances by nightingales from amongst the Divas held us spell bound, and compelled many to do some fervent table tapping.  As we clicked a group photograph for posterity, I realised my new potential status of being the envy of my male counterparts- and indeed the most befitting way to wrap up the wine engagements for the year gone by !

Until 2014, I sign off with wishing you all and your families a marvellous year ahead abundant with Good Health, Happiness and Prosperity ….and of course plenty of Good Wines to root!