Piccini- one of the most prominent wine producers from Tuscany has such a diverse portfolio that a wine lover could take a couple of years to get properly acquainted with it. I realized this during my visit to their various estates in 2016, tasting several wines with none other than Mario Piccini, the fourth generation Managing Director of the firm.
Two of their wines in particular evoked my interest during that time- both of them coming from the Torre Mora estate in the Etna DOC in Sicily. The wines- Scalunera Etna DOC Bianco and Rosso not only expressed their famed volcanic terroir but also its typical grape varietals. I also wondered if we could get these wines in India, being somewhat niche.
It seems that the wine Gods were reading my thoughts, as both the wines have indeed arrived in India. The wines will augment Piccini’s already existing portfolio in the country that includes their Chianti range, a Prosecco and a Brunello di Montalcino. Noteworthy to mention is that Piccini wines are represented in India by Prestige Wines and Spirits, a prominent wine importer of the country.
Tuscany and Beyond: The story of Piccini
Located in the heart of the famed Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, Tenute Piccini was founded in 1882 by Angiolo Piccini and his wife Maria Teresa Totti with merely 7 hectares of vineyards to begin with. Today the family owned business has more than 400 hectares of vineyards spread across their five estates- Fattoria di Valiano in Chianti Classico, Tenuta Moraia in Maremma (coastal Tuscany), Villa al Cortile in Montalcino (producing Brunello wines), Regio Cantina in Basilicata (specialized in Aglianico del Vulture wines) and now the newly acquired Torre Mora estate that produces the Etna DOC wines we are talking about. It is highly justified then, for Piccini to proudly proclaim their principal value as: “grounded to the Tuscan land and its traditions but not bounded by it”.
Unique Wines
Mount Etna in Sicily is an exceptional place to produce wines owing to its fertile volcanic soil. Etna D.O.C. is situated very close to the volcano on its north, east and south slopes. Much of these slopes are covered with crops and natural vegetation among which grape vines are the most prominent ones.
Piccini’s Torre Mora estate is divided into two plots that extend over 13 hectares on the North-Eastern side of Mount Etna. According to the winemaker, their estate is inspired by the perfect match between the native varietals and Mount Etna, focussing on sustainability, organic viticulture, traditional methods of winemaking, typical varietal characteristics and respect for the local culture.
Mount Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe and one of the world’s most frequently erupting volcanoes.
The Torre Mora estate produces three variants of the Scalunera label viz. Bianco, Rosato and Rosso; as also Torre Mora Etna Rosso DOC, which is a blend of both the vineyard plots. Out of these, Torre Mora Scalunera Etna DOC Bianco and Rosso have been introduced in India.
Scalunera” means “a flight of steps” in Sicilian dialect. The label is inspired by the terraces of Lava stone on which Piccini’s Torre Mora vineyards are planted.
The New Wines
We (a small group of people from the wine trade) sampled the newly introduced wines around an “Italian trattoria lunch”at La Piazza Hyatt Regency, one of Delhi’s oldest Italian restaurants. Piccini’s globetrotting Sommelier Alessandro Nesi arrived specially for the purpose, sharing many insights about the wines while interacting with each guest.
The afternoon started with Piccini Prosecco, going on to Scalunera Bianco and Rosso, their Valiano estate Chianti Classico and finally their Villa al Cortile Brunello di Montalcino. Having tasted the other wines on numerous occasions earlier, I will restrict myself to describing the newbies i.e. the Scalunera wines in this space.
What’s so special?
Torre Mora Scalunera Etna DOC Bianco (MRP ₹ 4500)
For one, the Scalunera Bianco (95% Carricante, 5% Catarratto) had a clean yet complex nose which expands on the palate in the same demeanor. If I co-relate it with more common wines, I would describe it as closer to a cold climate Chardonnay but with a much higher degree of complexity. The wine had remarkably balanced acidity which gave it a “steely” structure accompanied by stone fruit flavours and a mineral finish. At the lunch, I tried the wine with antipasti, Pizza Margherita and Tortellini in Parmesan cream sauce. The wine handled the light as well as creamy food with equal ease. It turned out my best wine for the day, even with the powerful reds around.
Torre Mora Scalunera Etna DOC Rosso (MRP ₹ 4500)
This deep ruby medium bodied red wine (95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappucio ) was soft on the palate with a good structure, flavours of red berries and a spicy-smoky finish. Co-relating with more common wines again, I would equate it with a Granache wine or even a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre (GSM) blend with a predominance of Granache. In short, Scalunera Etna DOC Rosso is a friendly wine possible to be enjoyed on its own but ideally with some savoury food. At the lunch, I tried it with Pizza Pepperoni and Tagliatelle Lamb Ragu and enjoyed it to the hilt. The pairing somewhat reminded me the fabulous Pinci Pasta that I enjoyed in Piccini’s Villa al Cortile estate in Montalcino back in 2016.
A diverse offering by Piccini in India
Sumit Sehgal, Director Prestige Wines and Spirit shared on the occasion that their selection of the Piccini “bouquet” for India aims at offering something for everyone. Hence their wines range from ₹ 900 to ₹ 8000 with wide options for both retail and restaurants. For example, he cited Piccini’s Valiano Estate Chianti Classico – a mid price range wine- as good for restaurants while the Brunello di Montalcino being available only “on trade” for wine aficionados. Likewise, their Chianti DOCG is available in both channels and has been a good volume generator. Lately, Piccini Merlot and Chardonnay have been the value wines for parties, by the glass and banquets.
Torre Mora wines from Piccini will be interesting for deep rooted wine lovers, especially for consumers who are looking for unique grapes. To start with, these wines will be available in select restaurants and for private clients only.
– Sumit Sehgal, Director Prestige Wines and Spirits
On enquiring if there were more wines from Piccini being considered for India, Sumit did not negate the possibility but preferred to maintain it as an element of surprise and excitement for the future.
An excitement that passionate wine lovers would always welcome.
